3 pt hitch hydraulics on 1955 TO-35

I just got my Dad's 1955 TO-35 running after it sat in his machine shed for 10-12 years. Replaced the points, plugs, wires, roter and dist cap. Cleaned a bunch of varnish out of the sediment bowl and fuel line and filled the gas tank with fresh fuel. Feathered the choke and got it to fire up and run poorly but running none the less. I think the carb is due for a good cleaning. Since the oil and water levels are fine, although they need replaced, I drove it around the lot for a few minutes with much satisfaction. When I stood on the lower arms to add some weight, we raised and lowered the arms. They lifted my 230 pounds easily enough but I could feel through the soles of my feet that the lift was not very smooth. I could feel hundreds of small micro-pulses as it was raising. I assume from the hydraulic piston pumping fluid. My question is whether these micro-pulses are normal or is there a problem with the hydraulic system? My brother said that the hydraulics were "weak" the last time he used it over a decade ago. Should the hydraulic fluid be replaced? Any help is much appreciated.

i would definitely change the fluid

I would try to let the tractor get to full operating temp before you drain the hyd oil, if possible.

the last time I change out the hyd/trans oil in my old 1957 TO-35. i put the plows on and broke up a few garden spots then disc them down.

by the time I opened up the sump drains the oil was up to operating temp. You will get much more of the evil dirty stuff to drain out, if its hot,

note to file: it may take a full day for the oil to drain out. do not be in a hurry, let it drain until it stops running out. tractor has been setting for 8 years another day should not be a problem.

reason for this procedure, 8 gals of NAPA, GL-1 oil is not cheap, so you do not want to have to do it again.

that would be what I would do: if nothing else just hook to a log and pull it around until the trans oil is hot, work the lift a number of times to cycle the oil.

be sure the lift is in the down position when you drain the oil so most all the oil is out of the lift piston cylinder.

good luck.

if you had only known, before you moved the tractor you should have cracked the trans drain plugs and let the water drain out of the sump, sometimes you can get up to a cup full of water out.

after the tractor sets for a week or two one should crack the trans drain plug, from time to time, and let any water drain out. the water will collect in the bottom.

as I understand this is where the pump pickup is located, so getting the water out is very important.

if you drive the tractor all the time the water stays mixed so it will not freeze and bust parts!!!!!
but get it out is best and change the oil.

(quoted from post at 21:18:08 07/05/13) I just got my Dad's 1955 TO-35 running after it sat in his machine shed for 10-12 years. Replaced the points, plugs, wires, roter and dist cap. Cleaned a bunch of varnish out of the sediment bowl and fuel line and filled the gas tank with fresh fuel. Feathered the choke and got it to fire up and run poorly but running none the less. I think the carb is due for a good cleaning. Since the oil and water levels are fine, although they need replaced, I drove it around the lot for a few minutes with much satisfaction. When I stood on the lower arms to add some weight, we raised and lowered the arms. They lifted my 230 pounds easily enough but I could feel through the soles of my feet that the lift was not very smooth. I could feel hundreds of small micro-pulses as it was raising. I assume from the hydraulic piston pumping fluid. My question is whether these micro-pulses are normal or is there a problem with the hydraulic system? My brother said that the hydraulics were "weak" the last time he used it over a decade ago. Should the hydraulic fluid be replaced? Any help is much appreciated.

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Would you be replacing the oil because it's a good maintenance thing to do, or are you hoping it will fix the weak, pulsating hydraulics? In my experience unless someone installed the incoreect oil in the past (too light, like Ford 134, not GL-1) the fresh oil will not help performance much and you will have to rebuild the pump and lift cylinder to get it to work like it should. You could give it a try, although as someone else said you will need 8 gallons of GL-1. Even if it doesn't help the 3-point, at least you know you'll have fresh oil in the trans and differential if you can get by with using the hydraulics the way they are.