Leveling Box

2tractors

Well-known Member
My donor 35 has a leveling box that works so while trying to swap the bad and good out I found one had a pin in the top that doesn't come out and the other pin to the lower part of the top part won't come out. It's where it connects to the lift arm, maybe called a knuckle or something. Also wonder if anyone has ever "repaired" the gears inside?
 
I usually rebuild the levelling box on all the tractors I restore. It is no big deal and all the parts are available. I weld up all the worn holes and drill them again with a 5/8th bit.
Sam
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It's the part in the last photo above the handle with the 2 pins, one won't budge. Is it a press fit?
 
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I thought my tractor was nice and clean but looking at the rear end of your tractor it looks too good to use and risk getting dirty.
Brad
 
I actually supply the parts, to customers and get them from my distributor. I am sure Sparex in America will have the parts. Not sure about Case as we don't have many of them over here, just David Brown/Case.
The pins sometimes seize in the knuckle joints. try heating the joint real hot. or hold a heavy hammer behind the knuckle and tap the front quite hard with another hammer to loosen the rust. Sometimes if the end of the pin gets swollen with beating it, you may have to slice it off with a grinder. I always beat on the head of the pin first until I see it move a bit, then hit it back and forth, until it is free.
Sam
 
How does the leveling box come apart? I ordered a new threaded shaft (with the gear on top) since my [present one is bent, but now don't see how to get in there.

Can anyone provide blow-by-blow (as these jobs often end up) guidance? I know, it often does involve hammers.....
 
Jim, I replaced the shaft on mine, also. It was bent, and had been welded rather poorly.

Once I had the "knuckle" off the top of the box, and the shaft unscrewed from the fork, I hacksawed off the bent portion of the shaft, up pretty close to the leveling box.

The crank handle passes through the leveling box, and the far end is secured to a small pinion gear with a bent cotter key, or maybe a roll pin. (Mine was a cotter key.)

Remove the pin/cotter key, and the handle and pinion will come out of the box. (Note: the pinion gear is not pictured in Sam's photo.)

There's a plug in the top of the leveling box (under where the knuckle was), that will be covered with dirt, grease, etc. Gently tap the stub of the cut-off shaft, and you'll drive the plug out, and you'll be able to remove the shaft. (The shaft on mine was in such bad shape that it would not come out of the leveling box, without being cut off.)

There's a bearing in the bottom of the box that can be replaced, or cleaned up and greased.
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Well I've been pounding for an hour on what I think is a tapered pin. Both ends were smeared over so I couldn't tell which was the large end, so I filed them off and then it looked like one end was a bit bigger - pound pound pound, heat, pound pound pound. Problem is, I'm using a drift which gradually smears the ends. The pin does move very slightly back and forth. Heat, PB blaster, pound, smear, file, repeat. During all this the round disc popped off revealing grease that had clearly had water getting in, so that part of the job is taken care of.
I'll get back at it i the morning. If I ever get this stupid pin out I think it will be clear sailing.
(My mind has wandered toward drilling but I want to use this thing and if I sacrifice the pin I will spend all day running around trying to find a just-right taper.....grrrr)
 

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