Removing a Stuck Non-Draft Control Link Pin

I'm kind of resurrecting a thread from a few months back. (And, borrowing a picture from Miner09 that's better than one that I could take.)

How do I remove a stuck "long pin", the one shown in this picture? Mine is stuck, AND broken off, on the right-hand side, at the hole where the linch-pin would go.
a106601.jpg
 
heat, hammer, loosem-up-goop, long punch, lotsa of patience and muscle. worked for me anyway.
 
Thanks, s19438 - that"s what I figgered. (Sorry, I don"t know your real name.)

I tried a little bit of everything you listed - just not enough, I guess. (I didn"t want to break anything.)
 
soak for a long time with 50/50 acetone and atf (it will remove paint though) and then heat the b'jeezus out of it, then hammer the b'jeezus out of it. 4 hours later I got the one out of my TO35 this way. Only thing I had going for me is the rear end housing was off the tractor and empty. Good Luck
 
James, that lower pin doesn't have anything to do with the draft control spring - it's supposed to be used with drawbar stays/drawbar/pull arms, to pull loads where draft control is not needed. (There's a good thread on that topic from a few months ago.)

Gearhead, I'm starting to think that my pin looks fine just the way it is! :shock: I'll just hook the stays to the draft control pin!
 
Hit that pin hard with a hammer it will brake the end off I know I did it then cut the pin in three pieces to get it out.
 
I've got a head start on your method, No Way, since some Previous Owner already broke off the end for me! :)

Since the pin's already ruined, I may try cutting it - then I'll have three smaller pieces to try to get out.
 
That pin is hinged in the middle to allow it to be pivoted as it comes out.
Heat and PB Blaster will loosen it up. Mine was siezed in as well.
 
Don't smack it too hard with a hammer or you risk breaking one or both of the ears off. Heat and use release fluid then let cool down . Use a Stillson wrench ? sorry don't know what you call it in the US ; but the big one with teeth used by plumbers for pipes . Set the teeth of the wrench onto the pin and try to rotate it downwards , alternate from one side to the other , you may be able to snap the pin at the centre hinge which will make the job easier.
 
The replacement pin is specific for the T20. It has a shoulder on the left side. Why the left hole is bigger I don t know. Harry F. was Irish of course
The MF35 one is different
If you can t get the correct one then add a short bush. Even an Aussie could do that
 
After I had heated mine GOOD I cut it off a little long in 3 pieces, then ground each piece smooth and flat on the ends. Then took a die grinder and made a chamfer on each one, so that when you hit it with a big punch it doesn't clinch it on the end like a rivet. I think ,however, that everyone has forgotten about the dang fender...I couldn't get a decent swing on it for nothing. (being left handed doesn't help LOL) so I took off the right side one to get some room, and let it have it....they weren't long coming out but it wasn't easy.....
Irv
 

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