Wrong Carburetor for TO 35?

MOHopkinson

New User
I have a Marvel-Schobler TSXA 361A carburetor and my Fergusion TO 35. I have ran the tractor and since it is my first tractor I feel it has worked OK. It was having trouble running this last summer so I took the carburetor off to clean. Let me tell you there was a lot of rust inside. I reassembled using hand made gaskets and it did run but next when I went to start it up all the gas had leaked from the gas tank through my clean carburetor to the ground. Now that it is winter and I've got time to surf the internet for parts for my tractor.
I find that I have the wrong model carburetor for a TO 35. The carburetor listed is either a TSX 605, 683, or a 882. The one I have is listed for the TO 30, 25, and 20.
Here is the question; Do I need to buy the carburetor listed for my tractor or can I just rebuild my present one? Is the one I'm using now reduce the output HP of the tractor? :?:
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A TSX 361A is for a TO20, a TO30 used a TSX 458 and a 35
used a TSX 605 I think, or it could of had a Zenith carb on it
also. Will it run with a 361? Yes but it may run lean. You
should pull the spark plugs and see what color the tips are. If
they are a white to grayish color. Your too lean. If you are
gonna be doing some pretty hard work with the tractor I
recomend getting another carb. If it is something you hardly
ever use and just do yard work it will probably be ok. You can
always richen the mixture up on it. I would also recommend
that you rebuild it with a proper kit and anytime you park the
tractor you should turn the fuel off.
 
i have a 1957 TO-35
it has the tsx 605 carb.

it has been rebuilt and the tractor runs great, idles at 400 rpms. takes the fuel fine and runs at top speed smooth.

it is a little cold collared or it has to be choked some on a cold start, but as soon as it warmed up some it runs great.

But!!!!! I always cut the fuel off to the carb at the fuel shutoff valve. i have had it off a few times over the years replace the needle seat, but i have never completely stop it from leaking fuel if the tractor motor is off and it is left for a while.

most times it's not a problem, but i do not trust it, so when i stop for lunch or away from the tractor for a period of time, I always shut the fuel valve off.

main reason: lose fuel, but the real problem, if you try to start the tractor with the carb and air inlet hose full of fuel you will draw raw fuel into the cylinders and you wash oil off the sides of cylinder and could cause them to scar.

So, if my tractor carb has leaked fuel: i drain the carb and air inlet hose before i try to start tractor.
 
http://www.nnalert.com/PDF/carburetor.pdf

check out this file for rebuilding your carb.
also info on how to set the carb

its a big file, so do not get in a hurry to delete it, as if its not loading.
 
I would think that if it wasn't close enough you always would have had problems with it running lean, no power, sputtering etc.
I would look at the specs for the main jet etc. to see just how far off it is.
 
Ihe TSX 361 was designed for a 12O cu in displacement engine and your TO-35 has a 134 cu in Z134 IIRC. You need something to handle about 12% more airflow.

The best thing to do is to find the correct carb for you tractor.

You could probably use a TSX 458 from the Z129 powered TO-30 and adjust it adequately because there is only around 4% difference in air flow and the TXS 458 has the larger venturi.

Having said all of this, if the tractor ran fine in the past with a TSX 361 I would suspect the poor running condition you are experiencing now is due to either a dirty carb or a poorly maintained ignition system. How have you concluded that the carb is the problem in the first place? Most poor running issues that are blamed on carbs turn out to be ignition related! So check you spark and see if you have the requisite FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, the color of lightning. Check the distributor shaft for wear and check the initial timing.

You said your carb had a lot of rust in it. It"s likely unless you soak it in carb cleaner of over 24 hours and then blow out all the passages to make sure they are flowing freely, you still have some crud in your carb"s metering passages. You may have to manually clean some of these passages with small wire to get 50+ years of crap and corruption out of these passages. Make sure that you set the float correctly because the float setting on these carbs in important. Always shut the tank valve off when you shutdown to preclude fuel leaking from the carb.
 
I"ll jump into the fray...

Pull the plug on the bottom of the carb. Install barbed fitting. Attach clear hose open on the other end. Hold up hose towards gas tank.
Open fuel valve. The gas will fill the tube showing you the fuel level inside the carb.

A decent rebuild kit will include a neoprene needle that will also reduce/eliminate fuel leakage in the float circuit when shut off.

You can also install a solenoid valve hooked up to the ign key that will automatically turn off the gas when not running.
 
Bruce,
I am going to award you a West KY redneck star for that idea on the using the clear rubber hose to determine the true fuel level in the carb.

I have rebuilt my old carb a number of times over the years and set the float per the directions, but i really never knew how to determine the true fuel level in the carb.

your method would work.

my carb will leak sometimes, i have tried brass needle, rubber tip needle and new seats, but never really solved the problem completely.

the electric fuel cutoff might be the right way to go, but my way works as long as i remember to cut the fuel off.
 
You really need to locate the correct Carburettor for this Engine as Jerry has said. It can be either a Carter or a Schebler. Always use the correct gaskets on a Carburettor or it will suck air or leak fuel. Make sure that the height of the fuel in the Carb Bowl is correct at all times. This should be 13/64" (on a Schebler)from the top of the Float to the machined face of the Carburettor top casting, where it would attach to the bottom Bowl this setting must be accurate and because of this the correct thickness of gasket is necessary. To adjust this clearance you can use needle-nose pliers to alter the Float clearance. On a Schebler Carburettor, the clearance is 1/4" from the machined surface of the Top Casting BUT WITH THE GASKET IN PLACE to the nearest part of the Float. So in this instance you measure from the top of the gasket to the Float, which is different to the Carter Carb. When you are measuring this clearance on both types of Carb, you have the Top Casting upside down to how it would be mounted on the Engine, in this position the Float will drop and be in the shut-off position and then you can measure the clearance. In both instances make sure that the shut-off valve is in good order and that it isn't marked due to wear, change it if there is any doubt about it or it may leak and overfill the Carb. which in turn will cause the engine to run erratically, no matter how you try to adjust it.
John(UK)[email protected]
 
(quoted from post at 10:17:58 01/07/13).

my carb will leak sometimes, i have tried brass needle, rubber tip needle and new seats, but never really solved the problem completely.

the electric fuel cutoff might be the right way to go, but my way works as long as i remember to cut the fuel off.

Mine will leak once in a blue moon. When I say that I mean maybe once in 6 months. No leaks for another 6........not worth tearing into just for that. I just make sure I shut the fuel valve off on the sediment bowl.
I will probably fit a iginition activated fuel shut off solenoid at some point just for convenience. But as someone else said in the thread which talks about running out of fuel, it's good to have a look at all your fluid levels before starting anyway and turning on the fuel is a good way to remember to do that.
 
Thank you for all your words of wisdom. I'm thinking strongly of buying the correct carburetor for my tractor. I could rebuild, but I would like to get all the power out of my old Fergy that I can.
Thanks again and have a good year. :p
 
I have a 1955 TO35, which has a Carter Aluminum bottom, cast iron top. I don't have it in front of me however one of my books state there were 3 carburetors for this tractor, the carter Cast/aluminum, Carter all aluminum, and the Marvel Schebler. I ended up buying a remanufactured exact replacement from: https://www.link_disallowed/Massey_Ferguson_35_Fuel_System_s/1201.htm?searching=Y&sort=7&cat=1201&show=20&page=2

My original one was pretty bad and someone advised me that a complete kit was not available for it. I bolted it on and it runs like a well oiled clock.
 

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