4 Jason and other mower conisuers

Tony in Mass.

Well-known Member
I didn't want to hyjack 1943's post, from the look of that heat rainbow, he had a hard fight with something on that hanger.
Jason, I consider anything less than 3 days mounting this mower to be a battle well won.
The TSC brackets actually came closer to the bars, but I have no idea if this thing is bent, if you search archives.... a few weeks ago, I posted these pics and a few other folks came up with some good ideas... to try in the spring.
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Tony does your tractor have the 39.5" center to center lift arms? I've seen arms for the high crops that said they were 39.5" and 37". A 135 arm is supposed to be 36". But all of those are way off from the original 31.5" lift arms that mower was designed for. If you were close to me I would let you try an original set of TO30 arms to see how much difference that makes, because with the your F40 arms being that long I would think it is throwing the geometry off considerably on mounting the mower.
 
(quoted from post at 03:48:02 01/04/13) I didn't want to hyjack 1943's post, from the look of that heat rainbow, he had a hard fight with something on that hanger.
Jason, I consider anything less than 3 days mounting this mower to be a battle well won.
The TSC brackets actually came closer to the bars, but I have no idea if this thing is bent, if you search archives.... a few weeks ago, I posted these pics and a few other folks came up with some good ideas... to try in the spring.
a95382.jpg

a95383.jpg

a95384.jpg

a95385.jpg

a95386.jpg

I found another article that says 135's had 33" lift arms which would explain why it would hook up to your 135. Something else to think about is the leveling box and leveling rod on the left will be a different length for the high crop verses the standard tractors. The stabilizer brackets from TSC are made for the 31.5" lift arms according to the book I have. I am attaching a link that shows the stabilizer bracket you need. It has a 6.5" drop down from the axle.

http://www.tractorpartmart.com/us/stab-bracket-lh-p13103.html
 
Hey Jason!! Sam has a pit crew of redheads in grey bikinis who hook these things up in seconds... so whatever you do, don't admit you know how to do this, just look sad and try to get Sam to feel sorry for us....
 

I've done some more looking today. See if this helps you out any...notice where it says to remove the stabilizer pins and use the special bolts. I wonder what they looked like.

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Jason, is that last pic from the N tractor? manual forum? pages? That is all I had to go on when I first got the mower, but nearly as hard and long a process on a different tractor- F40 and 135/turf 20...
Sam, if they all aren't read heads with grey bikinis, you will be straying away from the corporate image... it would be like me having a blue and yellow 165.....
 
Honestly I don't know that you could ever get that FEO mower hooked up properly with out changing the lift arms to the standard TO35 length arm. On the other hand with it being a high clearance tractor when you switch to shorter arms you won't be able to lower the mower all the way down, but my thinking is to compensate for that you could use the links that the Dearborn 14-15 mowers used. To use those mowers you had to take the leveling box loose, and the left leveling link and insert these links on each side which lowered the arms closer to the ground. I'll get you a pic of what I'm talking about in a few minutes.
 
(quoted from post at 01:22:12 01/05/13) Honestly I don't know that you could ever get that FEO mower hooked up properly with out changing the lift arms to the standard TO35 length arm. On the other hand with it being a high clearance tractor when you switch to shorter arms you won't be able to lower the mower all the way down, but my thinking is to compensate for that you could use the links that the Dearborn 14-15 mowers used. To use those mowers you had to take the leveling box loose, and the left leveling link and insert these links on each side which lowered the arms closer to the ground. I'll get you a pic of what I'm talking about in a few minutes.

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!!!!! I don't have ANY of that stuff! There's a top link bracket like that on my 65, but holy cow.
Ya know Jason, like you wanted to fabricate plow coulters, I daydream about making this affair into a plain 3 point hitch.
BTW, I couldn't find Sam's link....
 
I was just throwing some ideas out there of how to make it easier to mount and still be fully functional on your tractor. If you decided you wanted to try the extension links you don't have to go buy a set. I've got the measurements from a set to make them.
 
Seeing you are so desperate for wimmen to help you Tony...Left click to the right side of my link and drag to the left leaving the link with a blue background, now click on the link to bring up an instruction box....click on 'open URL'
easy peasy.....Sam
 
I"ve got a set of those extension links sitting on a shelf in the basement Tony. Let me know if you need them. Thought I needed them on my 35 to hookup a dearborn mower. Turns out I didn't. I'll toss them in the mail to you if you want.
 
Gosh x, and Jason... I wish? hope? we were doing this thread a few months from now, I don't even want to think about such a project in this weather.
I 'think' mine is bent, or just have the wrong brackets under the fenders, or pins, but holy cow, the thing slips off the pins at the drop of a hat! I know it is a safety feature, I doubt several inches, but something is just off by a little bit, I will go out to it in awhile and measure the arms, but I can't believe Harry, who prided himslef on ease of hitching up, would have approved this. Or was this affair 'after Harry'?
 
To Jason and all concerned... crawled in the snow under a frozen stiff tarp, as I thought, the lower links are 33". So I don't see needing the arm extentions, the problem is the lower brackets, or the dimensions of the mower itself?
 
Well as far as it slipping off the pins, it does say to remove the pins in the stabilizer brackets and use the bolts with the cone nuts. May have to make those...if you leave the top link unhooked does it help hooking it up any? What about if you used the drop down stabilizer brackets it calls for, for a high crop?
 

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