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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
Show Parts for Model:

Re: How to buy a rebuilt motor update 2- question

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upnorthwi

12-18-2012 14:27:09
76.2.221.25



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Have the manuals, cd. dvd, just no confidence that I can get it back together....right. Always read the littlest thing can trash a rebuild.

I thought I could get a kit and drop it in. Then I started to read on here even with the kit all the meticulous measuring and checking you need to do, fitting bearings, rings. I thought if you got the kit you wouldn't have to do all that. So that adds to the jitters.

The one is stuck. I assume it sat for many years without a head and rusted real good before they put the head on it to sell it.

I've soaked for weeks, rocked, pulled, try every cocktail..it's stuck.

So you're right, probably should tear it apart and see if I need to look for a block.

There's so many questions the book doesn't cover,

And to have panic and anxiety issues on top of it!

Thanks for your thoughts.

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Jason S.

12-18-2012 15:26:06
174.228.82.167



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 Re: How to buy a rebuilt motor update 2- question in reply to upnorthwi, 12-18-2012 14:27:09  
Did you try pouring boiling water down in the block thru the water neck? That may sound silly but sometimes the heat from the water will expand the block and sleeves enough to enable you to break it loose. It worked for me on a John Deere model A that sat outside for 20 years and rained down the exhaust. I soaked it for about a week, then poured the boiling water into the block, put a bar on the flywheel and got it to move and I kept working it back and forth little by little until it was free and I got it running.

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upnorthwi

12-18-2012 16:01:36
76.2.221.25



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 Re: How to buy a rebuilt motor update 2- question in reply to Jason S., 12-18-2012 15:26:06  
That is an interesting idea, never heard that one before, but it makes some sense.

But here's a question,

If a motor is stuck from rusted cylinders and rings and you break it free, aren't you then taking all that rust and scoring the cylinders to the point of being an oil burner?

I guess that confuses me, I hear the stories on the ones that sat in the field, they free them up and they run, but it seems like all the moisture..rust would tear everything up.

Or do you break them free to help you tear them apart? Can they still be usable after being freed?

What do you think of the idea of using air pressure?

I read to avoid anything or force that might bend the rods, but it seems there isn't much of a choice.

I think mine was already stuck when they put the head back on. It's either a bad head that leaked and rusted or however long it sat without the head before he put it on. He said there was some rust, but no idea how bad it was. I'm thinking real bad.

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Jason S.

12-18-2012 16:58:29
174.228.82.167



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 Re: How to buy a rebuilt motor update 2- question in reply to upnorthwi, 12-18-2012 16:01:36  
When it breaks loose the rings will scrape a lot of the rust off of the walls and push it to the top of the cylinder where it can be wiped out if the head is off. I usually take a cylinder hone and hone the tops of the cylinder walls so it removes some of the rust before i try to break it loose.Will it be an oil burner? That depends on how bad the cylinder walls are pitted and the rings are worn. If I could break it loose and crank it that"s what I would do. That way you can check oil pressure, listen for knocks, check the hydraulics and etc...

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Jason S.

12-18-2012 17:10:23
174.228.82.167



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 Re: How to buy a rebuilt motor update 2- question in reply to Jason S., 12-18-2012 16:58:29  
I've never tried air pressure, I've even heard of people pumping the cylinders full of grease and the hydraulic pressure breaking them loose but I would not ever try that. Personally I would remove the head and soak the cylinders some more and then take a block of wood and a hammer and tap on the tops of the pistons. Then take a breaker bar and socket and put on the bolt on the crankshaft pulley and see if it moves any. If it doesn't repeat the process. Just keep working at it. I don't rock the tractors when the engine it stuck because a lot of the time the clutch will slip before it break the engine loose. Especially if the clutch is worn.

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Jason S.

12-18-2012 15:19:30
174.228.82.167



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 Re: How to buy a rebuilt motor update 2- question in reply to upnorthwi, 12-18-2012 14:27:09  
You shouldn"t have to fit the rings. They come pregapped. Check the clearances on them yes, but you shouldn"t have to file them unless the clearances are off. Check the back of the rod and main bearings to see if the crank has been ground already. The oversize on the bearing will be stamped into them, if there are oversize. The book will give you tolerances on the rod and main journals on the crank, measure the crank with some calipers if it is within spec reinstall it with new bearings. If not either send it off to be reground or buy one already turned with the matching bearings. Then install your sleeves, rods and pistons. Then set the end play on the crank. It"s really not as difficult as it seems, take lots of pictures as you tear it down, ask all the questions you want because there are people on here who will help you and try to walk you thru it. Keep everything clean and have patience.

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upnorthwi

12-18-2012 16:07:26
76.2.221.25



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 Re: How to buy a rebuilt motor update 2- question in reply to Jason S., 12-18-2012 15:19:30  
OK, there was a lot of Latin in there, bit of Russian maybe.

I'll work on getting it apart first. Then you can work me through the steps.

Probably have to teach how to measure again, think I forgot decimals and fractions about 6 grand kids ago.



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