5 minute 5 point hitch job?

Tony in Mass.

Well-known Member
OK, the last time I hooked this thing up, it took nearly 3 days. I got it whittled down to 2 hours. but obviously on this tractor- the F 40, the bars to the stabilizers are way off.
I see one bracket- might be other way round, but still inches off where it fit on the 135. Could it be the 40 has longer lower links?
By some quirk of fate, it is able to raise and lower like it should. Just that everything else is wrong.
The manuals pdf's on the N tractor board said 'with practice, this mower can be mounted in 5 minutes'.... I realy don't want to practice doing this that often. It might just live with this F40 forever...
OK, it started to snow again, it was getting dark, and my feet were getting cold. But tomorrow I'd like to finish hitching it up properly, if such a thing is possible....
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Evidentally an 8n and an F40 aren't the same tractor. Looks to me from what I can see on your pictures that you need two longer lower lift arms, about six inches or so longer. Get some weldon lower link ends, some flat bar stock and some measurements and weld up a couple that will fit. That is what I would do. Done it on an old mower I had once.
 
At least you have started in time for next years hay, Tony! If you are going to use this on the F-40 the stabliser pins on the axle brackets have always to be opposite the lower link mounting pins. I would measure the arms of your other tractors, these low clearance tractors should all have the same length lift arms....so what ever tractor you want to use it on...alter those stay bars to suit.
By the way...farmers complained over here that the Ferguson reaper was hard to fit, so Harry trained up a bunch of girls and trained them how to fit the mower real fast, then he had them race each other at county shows around the county......never had any more complaints!
Now you are not going to let a bunch of young girls beat you....are you Tony?
Sam
 
Well Retired, I was thinking along those lines, but the chain on the .... whatever is replacing the upper link, wouldn't even reach the last notch. I now think I need to draw the head back from the tractor with a comealong or something slow and carefull, and see if the bars can line up to ANY holes on the brackets. I am thinking the old cast brackets didn't work on the late 135, but might line up on the 40? doesn't seem to be many of these mowers out there nowdays... I wonder why????
 
Yes Sam, I am preparing for mowing down icicles, teach those springy weeds a lesson too!
So, with all the cameras you wear out on you adventures.... you wouldn't happen to have any snap shots of the way this bolts together do you?
If not, would you have any videos of the team of girls putting these things on do you? In 1955 style puffy padded oversized bikinis I suppose??
As far as the team of girls 'beating me'.... agh... hummmm.... your mean in a race...or???? I got to go out and get some cold fresh air....

Ya know, I think you got a point there. A 'team' -that know's what they are doing- would manhandle (woman handle?) this apparatus alot easier and faster than a poor little cabbage patch refugee struggling all alone... OK, dress the girls up warm and send them over...
 
I thought maybe you were going to slice the snowbanks off low to the ground then come back and pick 'em up with the loader on that new 202 of yours.
 
You can fit different lengths of lower link arm to these tractors and the stabilizer bars must be the same length or they will bend.Measure centre to centre of the pin holes Fit the brackets under the axle and leave them slack, now fit the pivot pin in the bracket in the hole that is EXACTLY opposite the pivot pin for the lower link arm, it MUST be directly opposite this pin. Now attach the implement using the stabilizer bars and lift it clear of the floor about 6" to 12 " Now swing the implement across the tractor a few times and then making sure that the Top Link is EXACTLY in-line with the tractor (not slightly to one side) and then tighten the brackets under the axle.Those brackets are not mounted correctly, they should have then angle to-wards the transmission.It should take very little longer to mount an implement using stabilizers as one that doesn't use them. Leave them off the tractor until you have the implement mounted and lift it just clear of the floor, attach the tractor end of the bars and then attach the rear end, you should be able to swing the implement side to side slightly to assist you to mount the bars..John(UK)
 
Tony, after taking a second look at your first photo . I think I can (just) see your problem. You need to set the mowing machine down on the ground and shorten the chain/top link. this in turn should pivot the machine on the existing lower links and bring the stabiliser tubes rearwards, But do as JohnUK says, ensure the pins in the stabiliser brackets are dead opposite the lower link mounting pins.
Good luck......Oh and by the way! Harry's team back in the '50s didn't need any padding!! Sorry no photos!!
Sam
 
OK, you guys in the Greenwich time zone responded after my lunch, so I missed the chance to 'apply' you advise....es...plural...
I did get a pin to line up on both sides. The right bracket was turned around, the cutterbar manhandled a few times for the left pin- also used an old fashioned screw jack, then the other side lined up, didn't have an extra hitch pin that diameter, so put on a bolt with nut to lock it to the backet, then aligned and dropped the hook onto it... lowered the jack, and both hooks fell of the pins!
Now, am I to presume these are ment to pop up and off to aviod breaking something? I never used this mower, and seems to go with the hyrdaulic lift just fine.
Yes John, I have a collection of 'anti sway bars' to match up with lowers and brackets, and some are bent, and I may or may not need to straighten it, just part of the selection here.. and Sam.... the chain is on the most forward notches, do you think I should drop a link or two? And as I look at the top pic, the top bracket is not centred on the long pin, and with this contraption, every milimeter seems to count. I hope I am not trying to deal with something a past owner bowed out of proportion... I have no idea what a good one looks like!
BTW, without a team of mechanically inclined Irish supermodels on contract to Harry Ferguson LTD, this undertaking was 3 1/2 hours total.... most of it just staring aimlessly, but beat the 3 and a half days it took when I first took it home....
I owe that to some one on here pointing out the online manuals on the N tractor forum.
 
Does your arm that goes to the stabilizer bars have a bend in them. Mine has a bend and it looks like your are straight. I'll measure lenght tomorrow and send picture. I have the FEO 20 mower.I have no problem with it on the Standard F 40. Have not had it on the HC or RC 40.
 
Oh yeah if you got one already on an F40 we can learn alot here! And the end of your bars are open bottom hooks right? Take lots of pictures Mikey, I'll pay for the film developing! I'll take more pics of mine in the morning too.
I would say both round bars have compound curves in them
 
oooh John, an operator's manual.... that would be wishful thinking!
Right now, photograghs of one known to be undamaged or un-alterd- and the proper brackets would do a world of good, are these paper or online manuals? Did you see what the N tractor board has?
Thank you, but we better see how this mounting goes first..
 

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