Differences between TE20 and TO20

I bought a tractor and was told it was a 1947 TE20, however I am finding some differences that makes me think it is a TO20. (1) The voltage regulator is like the one on a TO20. (2) To adjust the brakes, there is a slot in the brake drum, instead of a bolt that you turn. Are there any other differences that might tell me. It doesn"t have a Serial # plate on it, but does have one of the engine. But I have found that # doesn"t tell the year or type.

1st pic...TE steering box
2nd pic....TO steering box
The steering box and gear box lid are combined on the TE and two separate units on the TO, This is the best indicator.
Sam

Thanks. Then mine is a TO20 as it has the separate cover. I got this old tractor at a really good price of $275. I tuned it up and cleaned the carb and it cranked up. I had to put on a rear tire. I tried to adjust the brakes, but I think I"m going to have to change them.

It may be that the axle seals are leaking onto the brake shoes. My TO20 had good shoes but where the axles leaked onto to them, it was like I had no brakes at all.

Forget about ancillary parts (Regulator) as they can be changed from either tractor and doesn't really tell you anything. You need to look at the tractor chassis. From how you describe the transmission cover and steering box being separate it would seem to be that it is a TO20 but those covers can be changed and it could cause confusion as to what it actually is. Check the material of the Transmission housing, just scratch the paint to see if it is an aluminum type or cast iron. Cast Iron is a TO20 and Aluminum (or actually Magnesium Electron) is a TE20. The brake adjustment appears to be TO20 but TE20's can have that as well when they have been converted from the earlier type, so it isn't a good guide. Look at the brake drums on a TO20 they are 11" dia but on a TE20 they are 14" diameter. If you have a TO20 the casting dates for the axle trumpet housings are on the front behind the brake shaft and on the TE20's they are on the side of the Centre axle housing just forward of the round inspection ports. Normally the engines are different but no use going into that as the engine could have been changed....John(UK)[email protected]

To tighten the brakes, insert a screwdriver into the slot and move the handle to-wards the rear axle (same both sides) and then slacken 6 - 8 "clicks". You should also check the independent brake pedal linkage that it isn't seized as this has an effect on the brakes. LIFT each pedal in turn and if the rod alongside the transmission bends then the pedal is seized and will need to be freed-of before they will work. You should also make sure that the Brake Rods down either side of the transmission are set for length correctly. Adjust the brakes to lock the wheel, now disconnect the brake rod at the front end and pull it hard to remove any play, you slacken the clevis on the rod and adjust it so that when you pull the rod hard the pin will just slide in the clevis and the brake lever, tighten lock nut and fit new cotter pin.Now adjust the brakes 6 - 8 clicks off. To test brakes, 3 rd gear and press brake pedal hard down. The tractor should drive in a straight line, if it veers off to one side, slack the adjuster on that side a couple of clicks. If there is any sign of an oil leak in the area of the brake drum then there may be oil on the brakes. Check that the transmission does not have too much oil by removing the bottom screw from either of the round inspection covers and allow any oil to run out. It will be slightly lower than normal but it will be OK and it could be that you don't need to change the seal for a while longer. If you need more info, just email me at the address below....John(UK)[email protected]

OK, I checked the transmission, it is cast iron and there is a TO 4024 located on the right side of the transmission above a cover where the dip stick is. Both axles are leaking fluid, so looks like need to order seals and new brake shoes. That will be my next project. I did adjust both brakes, but they still will not stop you unless I stand on the pedal.

If you have a TO20 as it looks like from the number that you gave, then you can fit "Sure Seals" which are much easier to fit and it saves pulling the axles and bearing Hubs apart. But check if the oil level is too high as that will cause the oil to leak into the brakes.....John(UK)[email protected]