TO-35 Gear oil in starter

Inno

Well-known Member
So I'm thinking maybe my remote hydraulics might have to take a backseat to what I found today. I've been having problems starting my TO-35 and I assumed it was a bad battery or possibly a charging system problem. That was until I boosted it and heard just a click and the starter didn't spin. So I took the closest heavy thing (in this case a rock) and gave it a rap on the side of the starter. It started to spin but not even fast enough to engage the starter with the ring gear. Got to thinking about it and on a couple of occasions I noticed a small puff of smoke from the starter just after starting it.
So I took the starter off and noticed it was quite wet on the end which goes into the engine. One sniff revealed that it was gear oil. Took the starter apart and I was able to literally pour out the gear oil. I cleaned it up and put it back together and was able to get it working again but now I'm faced with the leak that caused this.
Could it simply be the weep hole in the bottom that's plugged? Haven't checked that yet. Still haven't got the tractor back to the shop yet, waiting for my booster pack to recharge so I can start the tractor again, all that extra strain took it's toll on the battery too.
 
my to35 did that once.

got the tractor stuck plowing and mud plugged up the drain hole in the bottom of the trans housing.
after getting the tractor un-stuck i did not check to be sure the drain hole was open.

oil built up in the trans housing and the first thing i notice was oil coming out of the starter.

then i unplugged the drain, but by that time oil had gotten onto my clutch plate.
I had to have a new or rebuilt clutch/pressure plate installed.

all because i did not check that drain hole.

that drain hole is your friend, need to get in a habit of checking it each time you fuel tractor.

mine has an up side down cotter key in it that turns as you drive through grass and keeps the drain hole open.

hope you have not ruined your clutch.
 
Well I've only owned this one for 2 months or so and not done much to it or with it. I have noticed it's very hard to get into gear from a dead stop but if you stop with it in gear and then shift to another gear it goes without grinding. Was going to look into that at some point. I'll check the drain hole as soon as I get it back to the shop.
I need to check a whole bunch of things before the snow comes.
 
Your rear engine seal is bad or transmission seals bad and drain hole not draining. Replace both seals when you break tractor apart. One in engine--two in tranmission.Your housing will need to be clean also around cotter key when apart.Don't know how it builds up dirt etc but it will be in it.I've seen tractors that oil will be coming out around clutch bushings.(full of oil) Clutch will be slipping and time's not be moving.
 
If I have to split it I might as well replace the clutch and pressure plate too. No point in messing around and only doing half the job.
 
You should check the oil color to see which oil it is, black and it is from the Engine, milky or brown or green and it will be Transmission oil. If you can smell sulfur in the oil then you have the wrong oil in the hydraulics and it should be changed.(10W/30) Oil in the Clutch housing could simply be too much oil in the Transmission. Remove the bottom setscrew on either of the round inspection covers and allow any oil to drain out. This is slightly lower than it should be but it will prevent leaks into the Clutch or the brakes. if the seals are worn. The weep hole should be able to drain out any oil that leaks into the Clutch Housing, so make sure that the cotter pin will rotate easily, oil should never build up in the Clutch Housing, it should drain straight away. The seal, even if it is worn will usually contain any oil in the transmission providing the oil level in the transmission is correct. I would do all this before you split the tractor as it could save you having to do that for now. If you need to add oil to the transmission at any time when you don't have a leaking seal, don't add more than 2 gallons at any one time and allow it to stand for 15 mins before adding any more oil or checking the oil level. When you check the oil level,normally it should show on the dipstick to the middle mark NOT the high mark, you would only fill to the high mark if you were using external power, like those cylinders you mentioned earlier in the week, but don't add more than would be needed to fill the cylinders or you will have this same problem again. The seal that is allowing the oil to leak is quite small and thin and doesn't stand too much wear before causing this problem...John(UK)[email protected]
 
My 50 is doing the same after pouring in to much at one time into the tranny and then I parked it with the front down. The weep was not plugged which tells me the front tranny seal is REALLY shot!After cleaning out the starter it re filled after time and now needs cleaning just to get it in to work on.
 
Finally got the shop cleaned up enough to get it in yesterday. Hopefully I can spend a few evenings on it this week. Lots on the list and the list seems to keep getting longer!
I did have a look at the weep hole and the cotter pin moves but it looks pretty crudded up in there. I think I may split it anyway, partly because I've never done one and should and partly because I want to make sure I don't cause damage by not doing things that should be done. The seals can't be all that much, cheap insurance if you ask me. I thought the starter was done for but it seems to be fine after cleaning it out and charging the battery.
I have two floor jacks, 4 jack stands (and a bunch of 2x4s in case), a hyd. bottle jack and a stubborn streak, hopefully that'll be enough.
 
a lot of work if nothing is wrong, if you cotter key was loose and the oil came from you adding too much oil.

the oil just drained out, you should be good to go.

try it before you tear it apart is my suggestion.
 
Haven't added any oil since I got it. I did check the oil before buying it, I should maybe check it again and lower the level if necessary then see how it is.
I do have to remove the 3pt lift cover and put on the one I rebuilt for the 202 and no longer need on it so I'll get a look at things while I'm in there. I also plan on swapping out the gear oil for 10W30 as John UK has suggested.
 

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