Adding remote hydraulics to TO-35

Inno

Well-known Member
I am interested in adding remote hydraulics to my TO-35 sometime over the winter to control the angle of a blade and other things I haven't even thought of yet, possibly a hyd. top link. I see this part available on this site http://www.ytmag.com/TS300_18689.htm or a whole kit complete with control valve and plumbing.
which is a selector/isolator control. As I read the part description it seems as though I would be able to control either the 3pt arms OR the cylinder attached to another control valve but not both at the same time. Is this correct? I guess I would have to switch the selector from 3pt. to aux. hydraulics, make my adjustment then switch it back and hope the position holds.......I guess is should providing any cylinder used is in good shape.
Not looking to use it for front end loader or anything demanding, just a little better/easier control over my implements.
 
Well, the one that goes on the top of the tranny is...awkward to say the least.... OH! you are into horses! So. It is like a solid sharp jagged western style saddlehorn... not rounded and several inches straight up the middle... but kinda like inside your right thigh... this got to be MHF's worst idea.. the 2 spool one is something that just can't be ignored no matter how skinny your legs are...
 
Yeah, I had kind of wondered about the positioning of it but I would like some way to add remote hyd. to this tractor without using a front mounted pump.
Any other ideas?
 
You must have an MF with the cover...check that little casting- there is a plug screwed in it, maybe some ..1/4"? pipe,elbows etc until it is out of the way? Something like allis chalmers people do all the time...
 
First thing you need is the isolater valve. you remove the small
square plate on top of the lift cover and fit the isolater....no
gasket it just pops down on to the stackpipe. Take a hose from
the isolater to the input side of your remote valves , I would buy
a 3 bank after- market valve and mount it on the fender. bring
your return hose from the valve to a little Allen key grub screw
on the left side of the lift cover just in front of the lift shaft.
Ideally your spools will have one single acting valve....plumb this
out to a remote connection at the rear(you should have odd
numbers of remotes...single acting and 1 or 2 double acting)
Now run a tube from the small Allen key grub screw down on the
front left of the lift cover and use a quick release coupler to plug
it into the single acting remote. Put your draft lever fully back
into constant pumping with the selector lever locking the lower
linkarms and you have constant power to the spools. The single
acting lever will now operate your 3 point and the other valves
will be avaiable for other operations. If you go to plough simply
disconnect the quick release pipe from the single acting valve
and unlock you isolater valve. All sorts of combinations are
available in remote spool valves you need to decide before
buying how many 2 way cylinders and how many single way
cylinders you will run plus add the single acting one for the 3
point. Some valves have a screw so you can select either single
or double acting....shop around!
Sam
 
Feed your new valve from one of the plugs with the hexagon hole on the side of the Top Cover. Pipe up you selector valve as you want it. and lift the Draft Lever to the top of the quadrant. You now need to move your selector valve to operate the implement that you are controlling and it should work if you have it piped correctly. To operate the 3 point, lift whatever remote implement or Hydraulic cylinder you are using and move the selector valve so that it will lock this in the raised position, now just lower the Draft Control and operate it as normal.Then implement or ram will stay up as long as the valve and pipework has no leaks.No need to disconnect anything. The return from the selector valve attach es to the Top Cover on the Left side just forward of the Cross-shaft, do not return any oil through the filler plug alongside the Gear Levers. I am assuming that the cylinders you intend to use are double acting, if they are single acting the pipework is slightly different but more or less the same.To change from the implement to the 3 point, all you do is move the selector valve and the use the Tractor controls as normal. If you need more info and tell me exactly what you are using single or double acting rams I will send you a diagram that shows how to connect everything.There are quite a few ways to do this some more complex than others, you can use the tractor controls instead of a Valve assy, just use a selector valve to divert the oil...John(UK)[email protected]
 
Thanks for the replies. I plan on using one, maybe two double acting cylinders. Sounds like it might be easier and possibly cheaper than I originally thought.
 
My Dad has one like that on his MF 65. As you guessed, you can not use the 3 point and the hydraulics at the same time.

The hydraulic pump on his tractor (and yours) does not have a lot of volume, so anything you do with cylinders will be slow.

Dad had the valves mounted no a bracket on the right fender. I think they're a major pain and are in the way all the time. I keep banging my elbow on it when I try to use the 3 point hitch control or turn around to look while I'm backing up.
 
I thought I had a pic of a valve, can't dig one up, but you get the drift
a87973.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:47:06 11/01/12) My Dad has one like that on his MF 65. As you guessed, you can not use the 3 point and the hydraulics at the same time.

The hydraulic pump on his tractor (and yours) does not have a lot of volume, so anything you do with cylinders will be slow.

Thanks. I have no need of anything fast, just as long as I can adjust the angle of my back blade and top link without having to get off the tractor. Once the adjustment is made I can go back to using the 3pt. More for convenience than anything else as I'm aware that there isn't a lot of volume from the internal pump.

Tony, I was pretty sure that's what everyone was talking about. I'd like to see one all plumbed up if someone has a picture.

My needs or expectations are for one, maybe two double acting valves to be used for making adjustments to implements, slow is fine. Then once the adjustments are made, go back to using the 3pt. One or the other is fine..........don't have enough hands for anything else! :)
 
You asked for pictures - Here are the best ones I have.

This is the old setup. It worked pretty well, but only allowed for one hydraulic outlet.

Oldhydraulicsetup.jpg



Here's the new setup from the front. Sorry I didn't get a shot low enough to get the piece that was mounted on the transmission housing.


Newsetupfront.jpg




And another view from the back:

Newsetupback.jpg
 
That's great, thanks for the pictures. That definitely gives me some ideas. Your old setup looks like it would have been a bit difficult to get on and off of, how did you find it?
 
(quoted from post at 20:25:41 11/02/12) Your old setup looks like it would have been a bit difficult to get on and off of, how did you find it?

I'm not sure what you're asking.

We never took it off. It was there when we bought the tractor, and it always remained in place.
 
You refer to the old setup and the new setup. In the picture you called the old setup it looks like the control valves would be right between your legs when sitting in the seat.
 
O.K. - You mean with the old setup it would have been hard to get on and off the tractor? I thought you meant it would be hard to remove the control lever setup and put it back.

Yeah, it was kind of in the way. But like anything else, you get used to it and then don't think about it much.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top