to35,z134 overhaul update

Ed H.-OH

Member
Guys Hello, Me and my son pulled the engine the rest of the way down, I"m pleased to say there are no signs of cracks in the webbing.Everything is in remarkably good shape for a 57 yr. old engine. I bought $780.00 worth of parts today, Including head kit with new valves and guides,springs, oil pump kit,liners and pistons,all new bearings . The liner that leaked was rotting around the packing(see pic). Now it"s just a matter of cleaning it up and reassembly.OLD HARRY"S GOING TO ROAR AGAIN LOL -CHEERS -ED
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Ed. Many thanks for posting the pics. That is the first time i've ever seen inside of a Ferguson block ( with head removed) despite the fact i have a factory service manual,parts cataloug as well as owners manual and an IT service manual.

WHile u have it apart. Cheque the valve push rod chamber in the block. Does the chamber run full length of the block or is it 4 seperate chambers, one chamber for each cylinders 2wo push rods.

The reason i ask is that if at some future date cracks should occur at the lower cylinder webs (apparently many such reports) then knowing how to drill the block to install a threaded rod transversly thru the block is important. Mite want to mark the block externaly for future hole drilling reference should it become necessary.
 
Hmmmmmmmm. On second thot, after viewing the pics with a bit more study it appears that the cyl head stud bosses extend all of the way thru the height of the block. Therefore attempting to drill block Xversely for a long pinch bolt may be impossible or very poor idea.
 
The webs between the cylinders seem thicker (~2X) than they are on the Z120 and Z129 blocks.
Good luck on the overhaul and let us know how it goes.
 
Since the cylinder liner is corroded then is the corresponding area of the block as equally corroded????? If so then that mite create a sealing problem.
 
Jerry, Hello, How are things out in the big empty,I have never seen the z120-29 but i have heard other people say the same thing, so i beleave you are correct.
I cannot tell you how pleased i am That it going to go back together ok, as i like that old tractor. -ed
 
Packard Hi!, The block bore is fine, just eat the liner, As for the bolts through the block, I have never seen the inside of one that has been done so like you I can only guess how they did it. The bolts only show on the oil fill side as i recall. They must drill through the stud bosses and tap the hole in the one near the cam. Someone in my area is doing it as i've seen a coupple of them. I wish i could be more help-ed
 
Pretty sure I have seen pictures on this site of bolted blocks but I can't find them now. I did find this.
smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63589
 
Duner,Hello, Thanks for the information. Mine is not cracked, but if it was I would attempt the bolt thing for sure as the block is junk anyway.
I'm sure if the crack is pulled shut and supported it could be sealed up and save the block.The one's i seen looks like they drilled midway between the top and bottom web to support both. If the botom web is only cracked it looks to me that you could go strait through the block with a rod just below the crack and avoid drilling the stud bosses. the rod would just clear going over the cam and out through the block behind the starter. The block is tapered there on carb side,so you would have to make a tapered washer to conform. I hope i don't have to go there as the overhaul is enough for me, I'm interested in it as it would be nice to help people with this problem.-ed
 
Pretty dry over here! Need some rain. I"ve had to start feeding the pairs and we"ll be preg checking the cows and weaning the calves this weeekend. It"ll be noisey for few days.
 
DUner. Thanks for the Smokestak.com link. Very helpful. I mite have to do the threaded rod trick after all. The SmokeStak article answers alot of questions. -PV8
 
PV8, Hi!, The push rod cavity is open full legnth of the block , the only exception is the lifter mount blocks forged between the 2 walls.
ed
 

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