My opinion of the new TO/TE 20 oil pan

DON TX

Well-known Member
It surprised me to find it is cast iron instead of sheet metal = good. Had to remove flywheel shield to install = ok. Had to install all bolts before tightening in order to get all bolts started = ok. Went to install filter cover found it was concave instead of bulged like original, cover bolt hole was not big enuff to allow stud to pass thru the cover = bad. Not sure if it would work w/o modifying and didn't want to drill out hole, so I ground the weld off the oem pan and used the original cover = good. Tightened everything up and filled with oil. No leaks = good. Started it up and got pressure, no leaks, ran it till the radiator puked and puked and puked some more. Got worried and killed it. Checked water level and still above core. As far as I can tell it is circulating, thermostat is open so I figure it was overfilled. Will run tomorrow and see if it pukes again. Really want to put this thing back to work.
DON TX
 
Is the cast iron pan installed on a TO or a TE???? If a TE then is there any interference between strut rods and oil pan????

Approximately how thick is the new CI pan???
 
The Oil Pans on the TE20 and the TO20 are the same as they are both use the same version of the Z120 but a different series. So the strengthening struts will not make any problems. They were fitted to the TE20 as they needed extra strength for when they fitted a loader to the front end and they didn't want to load the Engine Block too much as it was not deep enough. Loaders were not in demand in the US like the UK on small tractors....John(UK)[email protected]
 
LEt me pose my question a different way:

Are cast iron oil pans aftermarket reproduction replacement oil pans or did some Z120 engines come from the factory as OEM cast iron oil pans????
 
I had to form the struts slightly to fit. I expect the cast iron can take the added stress.
It is my understanding the oem were all sheet metal. That said, I wouldn't hesitate to use a good used oem next time, just be more careful not to damage it.
Guessing the cast is @ 3/16 " thicker. It wasn't easy to hold it up and start bolts by myself. I had to use my legs to hold it up to get bolts started on 1 side and move to the other and repeat.
It was rubbing inside at the pickup near the front of the engine so it may be thicker to the inside but not sure if it wasn't that way with oem.
HTH
DON TX
 
Thanks Don for the reply. I was wondering if the CI oil pan was thick enuf to the extent that it would interfere with the struts.

However John UK's reply has me wondering. I was under the the assumption that the TE20 is fitted with struts because of Aluminium transmission. My To20 has no struts. In fact my TO20 front pivot bracket has absolutely no provision whatsoever to add struts even if i wanted to. Or at least not any such provision i can see.

And why would the British need front end loaders any more than the US???? I'm not doubting the claim. I'm just curious. If i added a front end loader to my TO20 i would have to add struts to it someway???
 
The pan could be ground down where the struts touch but I really don't think it's necessary. 1 side was worse than other but that's not saying much. The grind marks that they done for the bolts was pretty deep but could have been a 1/32nd deeper and facilitate the bolt installation a lot. It was pretty heavy. Shipping weight was 36# so the pan alone was proby 30+. The cover was over 1#. Box and shredded paper wasn't a #. That's a lot of metal.

DON TX
 

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