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Re: How to remove the rotor on a to-30, 1953

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Steve Ray

10-18-2012 16:49:27

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Guy's, I"m back for some more higher education. I have removed the rotor in pieces, it was seized by rust, I also removed a friction washer and a felt washer. Now there's a bakelight dome covering the points and condenser that I can't seem to find a way to remove. I've never seen one of these in a parts breakdown, so I hate to break it like I did the rotor, but the rotor is readily available.
Thanks for the help.

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10-18-2012 17:57:46

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 Re: How to remove the rotor on a to-30, 1953 in reply to Steve Ray, 10-18-2012 16:49:27  
Please post a pic of the bakelike dome over the points and condensor. It sounds like the wet weather shield and should pull straight up as the rotor should have. This tractor must have been under the water at some point.

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Steve Ray

10-22-2012 23:36:17

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 Re: How to remove the rotor on a to-30, 1953 in reply to 2tractors, 10-18-2012 17:57:46  
Well guys I got the thing running. The rotor, dust/moisture cover, points and condenser were all original, I believe. They were worn completely out.

I had to bust the rotor to get it off, but it was worn to a nub. The dust cover came off, but the gasket was hard as the bakelight and the oiled felt seal was just a string of cloth.

The points weren't making contact because there was no electrical connection to make, no material left on the points.

Replaced it all and it runs great. Now off to get the leaks in the carb sealed up. I must not have put enough twist on the screws when I cleaned it and replaced the gaskets, but it does run very well.

I learned that if you run 91 Octane gas or above here in Missouri there's no corn liquor added, so the gas will last lots longer before ruining parts. I'm all for supporting the energy cause and our farmers, but not at the expense of my equipment. I'd rather drink the alcohol anyway.

Thanks for the help. It's nice to know you are there.

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