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s19438 10-12-2012 07:52:58 72.94.45.81 Report to Moderator	for trailering TO model and like size tractors what fits best: wood or metal deck? detachable or fixed ramps? thanks. [Reply]   [No Email]
ericlb 10-12-2012 16:44:35 12.189.32.54 Report to Moderator	Re: tractor trailering in reply to s19438, 10-12-2012 07:52:58   with proper securement of the tractor, both are fine, that being said there are pro's and cons to each, wood offers better traction when loading rubber tired or steel wheel tractors, but needs the be treated regularly, and replaced once in awhile, steel lasts and lasts with only paint if you want a nice looking trailer, but steel offers less traction and when wet or loading a steel tired or tracked tractor is slippery and i mean badly, ramps are your choise and best based on what your use is, if you are only hauling 1 machine, fixed is good as you dont have to lift or store the ramps, but unless the ramps are built to slide side to side to compensate for different width tractors detachable ramps may be better, if you have a deckover trailer or even a tag along trailer having a dovetail on the rear of the trailer makes it much less scary to load as the loading angle is less, and longer than a straight trailer bed, make sure the ramps are heavy enough for what your loading, but they dont need to be way overbuilt, if all your hauling is a Ferguson tractor you dont need ramps that will hold up a d-6 cat, ive got a pair that will , and what a general pain to use they are, just to heavy to handle with 1 person, my other trailer has slide out ramps and is much easier to use for smaller tractors, pickups ect [Reply]  [No Email]
Charles in Aus. 10-12-2012 14:49:32 211.30.56.106 Report to Moderator	Re: tractor trailering in reply to s19438, 10-12-2012 07:52:58   These eye bolts are often added to the front axle to ensure the load is secure without damaging paint work. [Reply]  [No Email]
Bruce(OR) 10-12-2012 08:34:04 97.115.27.135 Report to Moderator	Re: tractor trailering in reply to s19438, 10-12-2012 07:52:58   I back it on and tie it down with ratcheting large yellow straps that I picked up from Home Depot at $13 each. One around each axle trumper going to the front of the trailer and another around each front axle section going to the rear of the trailer. The straps minimize paint damage. Chains would be nice if i ever fab a damage free area to secure chains to and then will be cut to length with lever action binders to secure them snugly. Ramps would be nice if they slid out from under a beaver tail. Ramps sticking striaight up in thew wind flow will increase drag and reduce fuel mileage noticeably. Either deck surface will work but a lighterweight trailert would be nice. The Fergy weighs in at 3,000 pounds and you need a trailer that will haul that. When backing the tractor on you can observe the rear bumper and ensure it settles down at least an inch, preferably two in order to not become tail heavy and fish tail going down the road. You can use a single axle trailer, just make sure it is rated for the load you desire. A good clue is to look at the max tire load on the side of the tires and subtract the weight of the trailer which can be checked at a truck weigh station. The remaing number is your max load figuring the construction of the trailer is suitable for the load you intend. [Reply]  [No Email]