Z-120 engine block crack

Jim.UT

Well-known Member
I'm parting out a TO-20. I'm familiar with the Ford N's but this is my first Fergy. I've been told that if the engine block isn't cracked, it would be in demand. I've also been told that the most common place for it to crack is between the cylinders.

My question: I'm getting ready to pull the head. Will the cracks be apparent after the head is off or will I need to pull sleeves to see any cracks?

Thanks!
 
My Z134 was cracked between #1 and #2, 2 and 3, and 3 and 4 cylinders. They were very easy to see, just clean the block deck surface real well. You may have to scrape the deck with a knife or scraper, but you should be able to see any cracks.

Bob Mc
 
In order to assure a buyer that they're getting a usable block you could take it to a machine shop and have them magnaflux it for cracks,the cost gets passed on to the buyer.
 
It turns out my question was unnecessary. When I got the head off I could plainly see a crack between 1 and 2, another between 2 and 3 and a third between 3 and 4. I guess the block is going in the scrap pile. Maybe the crank and rods will be worth saving.
 
This could still be a usable block. A lot of us have cracks in ours and have had them bolted or welded and they last a very long time. My Massey dealer has said he has seen engines come back for overhaul after many years of use with the engine pinned (bolted) and not had to touch the block.
I would think still a good engine to salvage not part out.
 
I'm sure that's true if my aim was to resurrect this tractor. But my whole purpose in buying it was to part it out. No one is going to pay shipping on a cracked block. Most people already have one of those! So, I'll post a local ad for it. Maybe someone local will be willing to pay scrap price or more for it. If not, I'll take what I can get from the scrap man, but I won't be putting this boat anchor on ebay.

The tractor had been sitting for about 20 years when I got it. The rear wheels had literally rusted off. The wheel hubs that were left wouldn't even turn in neutral. I only bought it to get a nice swing away bumper to put on my TO-30. The rest is available for parts or scrap, whichever will pay more. I've already sold the hood, grille, manifold, dash panel, rockshaft, & steering gear. It's past the point of fixing up now.
 
Swing away bumper?????? As on the front of the tractor????? Never seen nor heard of one. Anyone got a pic of one????
 
Here are pics I took of the bumper when I first dragged this beast home, before I even got it off
the trailer.
TO7298-03.jpg width=800
There are brackets bolted to the front axle. The bumper is attached to these brackets with pins. You can pull either pin to swing the bumper away from the grille before opening the hood.
TO7298-04.jpg width=800
With the bumper out of the way, the hood can be tilted forward for access to the toolbox, gas tank, etc.
TO7298-05.jpg width=800
If you pull both pins, you can remove the bumper altogether.

As I said, this is the main reason I bought this derelict. A few months ago I was at an estate auction and spied another swing away bumper on the ground. It got packaged with a Ford bumper and I bought them both. The second one (blue one on the right) is very similar to the first one, in fact they appear to have been made by the same person or company, but the style is a little different. The brackets, front loop and style of construction are identical.
FergBumper01.jpg width=800

FergBumper04.jpg width=800
After careful consideration I finally decided to keep the first one and sell the second one. A deal has already been made. I just need to figure out the best way to ship it to the buyer.
 

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