position control...chains??

Goodluck

The last re: had a great refference to Ed Gooding and limiter chains, with a very good picture of the settup. Just image google Ed Gooding and Limiter chains and it will take you there.

I read your post with great intrest. However, at least with my brand of rotory cutter, (international, of Bethel, Ohio) the top link is attached to a bracket that pivots aft. As the top-link is lengthened the pivot moves and allows the front edge of the mower to come up until the pivot bottoms out.

Thus, Height is set by shortening the top-link. If the lift is moved heigher that this bottoming out position the whole mower is lifter in the air.

With this design the depth control spring can never be put into compression.

I do agree with you that proper setting is 90% of the battle. I find that the mower will drift down over 10 min. or so and then have to be reset.

There are other position control devices you can make or buy, but I've never tried them....I do know for around 80 bucks, Zane's rig workes great and takes 5 minutes to put on.

Good Luck
Take Care
Steve

If you want a position control you can make one for < $20 or so. The plans are in the Photo Archives and they can also be e-mailed to anyone who wants them. It is easy to make and works great.

Limiter chains are only a pain if you change you bush hog cutting height alot. They are less painful than changing the rear wheel height.

I the quick height change brakets are used, as described below, limiter chains are even easier to use.

Jeff- oh

Don't know what's at the web site but here's a couple of ideas.

Vertically can be 2 chains attached to the front of the hog and the tractor's 3rd member (the top connection of the 3 points). Sorta makes the letter A with the hog being the horiz bar in the A. Adjust chain links for height.

Horizontally can be either chains or bars. The bar attaches where the 3 pt attaches to the implement (same hole) and the other end to a similar pin under the fender, under the axle. Where the fender bolts are secured to the axle, this is a piece of angle iron (bracket) with holes in it running fore and aft. A pin is inserted in one of the holes (usually 4 holes) on the inside of the bracket that matches the length of the bar. Tractor Supply has the bars and pins; maybe the angle bracket too. You can do this to either or both sides.

The chain would extend from 2 (left and right)of the 4 bolts securing the PTO adapter bracket (to the tractor) to some point on the lift arm. It could be made tight enough to limit the horiz travel somewhat; not a lot. Since this is usually too tight to get the 3 pt off the implements pins (during mount/dismount), a quick release link needs to be included so that the chain can be dropped when it is desired to connect the implement and reconnected afterwards.

Mark

The 3/4 went over a pin after sticking in 1 side of the 3rd member and another before you exit the other side of the 3rd member. Now I have 2 places to install chain links that can't move outwards because you're inside the 3rd member casting.

Merely slip the chain thru the slit and set to the desired length and presto, you're there. Adjustment is quick and easy if you want to change it.

Other end of chain(s) is attached to front of hog, as said previously A frame style using bolts and nuts.

If you can't find any, go to, or www an Allis Chalmers dealer and look at a parts list for a Model 5015 tractor. This is an 18 hp engine (15 hp PTO) small frame 3 cyl diesel that I once owned that had such a thing so it should be in the parts breakdown book. Otherwise make your own or go to a machine shop and get some made.

Mark