Can you repair an original light switch ?

Was doing some more wiring on the 424 tonight and found the 4 position rotary light switch to be bad. It didn't turn and click smoothly and did not have or transmit voltage. I had another one on the shelf that was removed from an early 1970s Cub (exactly the same original switch) and hooked it up. It turns and clicks nicely like it should and it was transmitting voltage perfectly when checked with test light.

I hooked up the headlights and installed the front cowl tonight. When tested, The lights all of a sudden came on and went back off. I had them grounded directly to batter and couldn't figure out what it could be. That is when I discovered that the switch I used has a bad connection at the "hot" terminal from the battery. What I mean by a bad connection is that the terminal on the switch must be loose. I played with it, best it back and forth, twisted on it and they came back on. Worked fine after that.

My question: can these style switches be repaired easily? If so how would one do so? My guess would be to solder the terminals down solidly again. ??? I ordered a new one tonight but it's gonna take a week to get here plus it would be nice to fix this one having that the new one was $40 !!! It is similar to the switch in the picture.

They can be pried apart. They are harder to get back together. Direct soldering on the terminals from the outside, may be the best chance for success. Going back together may require some super glue. Jim

Remove the screws that hold it together and they come apart easy so you can clean the contacs. Ive done it in the past not hard to do. Those sw are great look at how old they are and still work like new unless bad abuse of someone. Only problem has been is the fuse holder can get dirty so the fuse doesent make good contac.

Those light switches were grossly overloaded on the 06/56/66 tractors with the original five factory lights. Think your 424 has only three lights so you are a little better shape.

What you have found is a common problem with these switches. The battery connection gets loose, develops high resistance, produces heat which destroys the plating on the contact tab. Then it rusts and develops enough resistance so as not to work at all.

If you want to try soldering, I suggest you do it on a new one as I do not think you will ever get an old rusted one clean enough to take solder.

By the way, I hate to say this but AGCO has the identical switch for about half of the CIH price. Have one in my Farmall 666.

(quoted from post at 16:38:28 09/25/15) Those light switches were grossly overloaded on the 06/56/66 tractors with the original five factory lights. Think your 424 has only three lights so you are a little better shape.

What you have found is a common problem with these switches. The battery connection gets loose, develops high resistance, produces heat which destroys the plating on the contact tab. Then it rusts and develops enough resistance so as not to work at all.

If you want to try soldering, I suggest you do it on a new one as I do not think you will ever get an old rusted one clean enough to take solder.

By the way, I hate to say this but AGCO has the identical switch for about half of the CIH price. Have one in my Farmall 666.

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That's good info. Yeah I've been searching for that actual switch in other places. It is made by Indak so I figured I could find it elsewhere. Plus, the parts distributors must get them cheaper from somewhere. Thought about looking at Napa too because it would surprise you what they carry and the other stuff parts fit. What was your Agco part number ?

Did you check the voltage at the fuse on both sides when the lites went out that snapin holder just mite be your problem.

(quoted from post at 18:16:43 09/25/15) Did you check the voltage at the fuse on both sides when the lites went out that snapin holder just mite be your problem.

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I tested the fuse and then tested the holder connections at the rear. Both were all good and weren't the problem. I do agree that it usually is though

If the spade terminal wiggles at the copper colored rivet that I see in the pic,just solder it:a drop of solder on the rivet to the terminal should do it.After it cools,hook it up,turn it on and see if the terminal gets hot.If it stays cool it's good to go.Mark

I haven't done one on IH but did fix one on a JD M. Pried it apart and contacts inside were corroded so I cleaned them up and it worked fine.As said not as easy to not back together the one I worked on at least had small tabs holding back in. If it doesn't work at all you have noting to loose by taking it apart.

True if his switch is the OEM type, but the image shown is Not screwed together (IIRC) it is crimped. Jim

(quoted from post at 20:46:23 09/25/15) True if his switch is the OEM type, but the image shown is Not screwed together (IIRC) it is crimped. Jim

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Correct. I [b:fe98d5b74f]think[/b:fe98d5b74f] mine is the original one. I will have to see. That picture was the best one I could find for reference of the newer style switch. I couldn't find one of an original.

Testing the fuse isnt the answer does both sides have batt power. I just had one lites didnt work volts on one side but not other cleaned the fuse holder and presto lites again.

(quoted from post at 00:06:39 09/26/15) Testing the fuse isnt the answer does both sides have batt power. I just had one lites didnt work volts on one side but not other cleaned the fuse holder and presto lites again.

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Fuse holder connections are fine Gene.

so that means you have voltage on both sides of the holder not the fuse i had voltage on both sides of the fuse but when i put the probe on the holder itself none on the output side so cleaning the hoder itself lite did work

(quoted from post at 08:07:09 09/26/15) so that means you have voltage on both sides of the holder not the fuse i had voltage on both sides of the fuse but when i put the probe on the holder itself none on the output side so cleaning the hoder itself lite did work

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Yep. this fuse holder is actually ok. Ordered a new aftermarket switch (original style of course). The old switch that came off it had "Indak" cast into the body and had patents listed. It must have been pressed together because there were no screws holding it together.