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Farmall 806 hydraulic blow out

A

AllisG

Member
Was operating the 806 gas putting away the hay rake when suddenly had a large hydraulic leak. I do not a manual yet on this tractor. I believe the fluid is coming from the tube on the left behind the hydraulic box with the most paint removed as I could see it seeping out. Is there a reason for this to happen? A cause? And what does it take to fix?
 
Could be a simple O-ring,or a split line,or........Take it apart and look. Then post your findings.
 
It seems to be leaking from the end of the tube.. a button like piece in the center. Does that have a ring?
mvphoto26998.jpg
 
if i'm reading this right, it is your second remote valve that is leaking out the tail end. that "button" is not intended to seal; there are o rings farther inside that do that. there are rebuild kits to fix external leaks.
 
If it is the hex head pipe thing then your problem is the LATCHING valve inside the remote valve . And if you have never done one then you had best have the BOOK. To remove you will need to remove the hyd, couplers and tubes as EVERYTHING comes out the back. Then you unhook the linkage up ft. and then you get a socket that fits that big nut and unscrew it . YOU WANT THE PIECE OF PIPE TO COME OUT WITH OUT THE NUT COMING OFF FIRST . And you just slide the valve stem and all out , Then you place the PIPE into a vice and remove the big nut and remove the valve stem . Then you remove the screw in the end of the valve stem and remove the three little balls and the one bigger ball and spring . Then you place the valve stem in a vice and insert a punch into one of the latching ball holes and unscrew the last part of the valve and down inside there is a little valve about the dia. of a ball point pen refill and about and inch and a half long with a tinny little o/ring on it and that is your problem . Don't even bother tryen to remove and replace just get a new latching valve and the other o/rings and put it back together . Now setting the latching valve you will need a hyd. pressure gauge to set the srew once your all back together so thaat when you pull or push the lever on that valve it latches in and locks and unlocks when it hits pressure and not stick locked in or does not stay latched in it is sorta a fine line of setting one . This year i think i have done a dozen sofar. and one more to go on my own 806.
 
(quoted from post at 20:16:01 09/04/15) If it is the hex head pipe thing then your problem is the LATCHING valve inside the remote valve . And if you have never done one then you had best have the BOOK. To remove you will need to remove the hyd, couplers and tubes as EVERYTHING comes out the back. Then you unhook the linkage up ft. and then you get a socket that fits that big nut and unscrew it . YOU WANT THE PIECE OF PIPE TO COME OUT WITH OUT THE NUT COMING OFF FIRST . And you just slide the valve stem and all out , Then you place the PIPE into a vice and remove the big nut and remove the valve stem . Then you remove the screw in the end of the valve stem and remove the three little balls and the one bigger ball and spring . Then you place the valve stem in a vice and insert a punch into one of the latching ball holes and unscrew the last part of the valve and down inside there is a little valve about the dia. of a ball point pen refill and about and inch and a half long with a tinny little o/ring on it and that is your problem . Don't even bother tryen to remove and replace just get a new latching valve and the other o/rings and put it back together . Now setting the latching valve you will need a hyd. pressure gauge to set the srew once your all back together so thaat when you pull or push the lever on that valve it latches in and locks and unlocks when it hits pressure and not stick locked in or does not stay latched in it is sorta a fine line of setting one . This year i think i have done a dozen sofar. and one more to go on my own 806.
Click to expand...

That's right, it's seeping out of the end of the hex pipe from the small button piece, lost at least a gallon in 5 minutes id guess. So you say in order to repair the whole pipe section must be removed?
 
Ah YEP , best get and I T manual and read up on it since this is your first . And since this is your first borrow or steal one of the wifes baking pans to place the parts in so you do not loose any while you are taking things apart and cleaning them . DO NOT use any rags or paper towels to wipe off the parts , use clean parts washing fluid of your choice and compressed air for drying . When going back together dip everything in clean Hy Tran.
 
Some times those little latching pistons come completely out of place and end up in the center of the spool valve. This usually happens when the 0 ring is really loose fit in bore and you drop an implement fast. The negative pressure in spool will suck it right out . Well, it really leaks a lot of oil in a hurry then but usually blows that little plug out the end also. Some times, just the unlatching effect pops it out of place. Also, sometimes, using the valve right away the piston will go back into the proper place and huge leaks stops. I used to insert a rod proper diameter and length inside the spool valve to prevent this. So, if any of you guys come across a valve with a rod inside it, guess who probably has been in there before. It usually happened with heavy machines that dropped extremely fast and probably with the engine running slow so not much flow coming to the valve . It happened to a friend mechanic of mine but he never followed up on it so it happened numerous times on same tractor.
 
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