Farmall H engine rotation

DanH

Member
Trying to set my mag at top dead center on the #1 cylinder . Witch way does the motor turn clockwise or counter clockwise ? . I have tryed it both way with no luck. I have the carb off will that make a difference to loose any compression.

Thanks Dan
 
Having the carburetor off will give you more compression if anything, not less. But you cannot tell TDC by compression, you need to go by the timing marks. Take the rocker arm cover off to make sure you are on the compression stroke, the valves will not be moving for the last half turn of the crank. If you are cranking it, the mechanism allows you to only turn the engine in the direction it runs. If you can't locate the timing marks you can take the number one spark plug out (closest to the radiator) and feel piston movement with a wire. But this is not really accurate.
 
For future reference, look at your fan, (on these farmall tractors, not all engines turn same way and the fan may be ran by serpentine which could mean it turns differnt direction than engine rotation)it will tell you the direction of rotation.

Pull your plugs out, use the fan to turn engine over. If the belt slips use your other hand and put slight tension on belt right above the main pulley.

If you go to far the exhaust valve will open on next up stroke. It's easy as pie, you got this.

Once you are at tdc, the engine will tic toc back and forth easily. With a long screw drive, insert it into the spark plug hole. Push the driver toward top of cylinder resting the tip on top of the piston. Now rock the fan back and forth feeling and watching the screw drive. Stop the piston dead in the middle where it does not move up or down. For your number one cylinder you can use the marks on pulley, but for the rest you have to use this method or visually through plug hole. I prefer this as it is much more reliable than the eye method. I still checked tdc on number one with the driver. It was dead on, haha...

I know you just wanna set your mag. Just giving you info for future say you wanna adjust your valves or what not.

Good luck
Chance
 
Removing the carb dont shange anything for compression You need the valve cover off to see if both valves are closed when the #1 piston is clear up.
 
For Farmall wheel tractors, looking at the fan is reasonable, but lots of equipment has a fan that blows air through the radiator instead of sucking it through. Some come with an adjustable fan which can be reversed depending on conditions. It's also good to remember that the PTO turns reverse of the engine. CW when viewed from the back. So both front driven pumps and rear driven equipment all turn CCW when viewed from the input shaft end.

Also, when adjusting valves anytime you have a cylinder rising on the compression stroke you have at least 90 degrees where the valves are fully closed so you don't have to be very accurate, just a full turn of the crank from #1 to #3, the another turn to #4, and on to #2.
 
Stick a fishing cork in # 1 spark plug hole. Turn engine with crank slowly. When cork blows out, you are at or very close to TDC on compression stroke. Look at pointer on left side of timing cover, and turn crank to align notch in crank pulley with pointer. You have reached TDC.
 
Andy, with all due respect, and I sincerely mean that, why do you say you can't use compression to determine timing? I have for at least 40 years, used compression to determine when #1 is coming up on the compression stroke. I then use a few different methods to determine TDC. Depending upon the engine configuration, I have used wooded dowel rods in the spark plug hole and I have used dial indicators to mention a few, to determine TDC. I then set the mag or distributor accordingly. Over the years, I have found timing marks either to be illegible, or the pointer to be bent, missing, or just plain wrong. Of course, on the later (1960 or later) engines, I use a timing light AFTER I get the initial timing set.

I can time an engine for starting purposes, with my thumb for compression stroke and a wooden dowel rod for TDC just fine. Again, no disrespect, but I would like to understand your statement on compression and timing.
 
Also, when adjusting valves anytime you have a cylinder rising on the compression stroke you have at least 90 degrees where the valves are fully closed so you don't have to be very accurate, just a full turn of the crank from #1 to #3, the another turn to #4, and on to #2.



Actually you should only turn the crank 1/2 turn.
 

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