Farmall 450 brakes

My father-in-law has a L sticking brake on his 450.

I read this prior article here...

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=849830

...and I'm asking for some further advice.

Any reason to take either of these plates on the transmission off?

farm1.JPG


I ask because this is that wear-surface on the tranny plate, somewhat pitted and uneven...

farm6.jpg


... and here is the wear-surface on the actuator, and these two are representative of all 4 surfaces on each brake, R and L...

farm7.jpg


... and do these surfaces need to be 'turned' to make them smooth?

These are representative of all the ramps and balls, which look OK to me, unless someone thinks I'm missing something.

farm4.JPG


And last, representative of all 4 discs, just shy of 1/2" each...

farm5.JPG


... which seem thick enough, and I'll take all the excellent advice in the previous article about cleaning the male and female splines, and the light-lubing, and scuffing the discs and pressure surfaces, if you all think they're still serviceable.

One almost last question about Mr. Nicholson's advice about tolerance, because the difference between .06 and .03 isn't a whole lot, and I don't want to screw it up. As I hear it, 1) I measure the thickness of the stack including the actuator and both discs, and then 2) the distance from a straight-edge to the wear-surface of the housing, and subtract the difference. Do I have it right?
Lastly, my question is: do I have to take into consideration, in the measurements, the wear-surface on the plate on the transmission, and especially if it needs to be 'turned'.

Thanks, guys.
 
The wear surfaces are OK if scuffed up (don't try to get the pits out, they are not an issue. You have the idea of the measurement correct. The links that turn the actuator rings in opposite directions are at a best angle of advantage when the clearance is small, so err on the small side is OK, just not dragging. Jim
 
I had lots of problems with the right brake on my 400 even after replacing the disks and actuators. I solved the problem by replacing the splinned shaft. It had
notches worn in it and evidently the disks were catching in the notches. Your shaft doesn't look that bad.
 
The springs are really expensive at IH. If they are not broken use them. I always plane off .080 from the drum outer edge to make up for wear on the steel surfaces. I also use a 40 grit flap wheel on the steel surfaces to even them up.
 
When all metal parts are clean and new discs are installed there should be .030"-.040" clearance from your straightedge to the brake disc. Machine the edge of the outer casting as needed.
 

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