messed up M

zinniman1

Member
Had trouble getting my M to run after running perfect for several hours multiple times. Would buck and snort, wind down and stop. Turn off the ignition for 2 minutes, would start right up aned fail after 10 minutes, progressively shorter. Changed Capacitor, points, wires (oily and 3 years old). Changed the coil. New one had cracks in it, put back old, no change. Still failed. Checked the gas tank, Surprise found 2.5 blue shop towels in it, removed them (one at a time) when I found them. Still a problem. Hole in cap wide open. Cleaned out the water separator, had the carb rebuilt, still nothing. Opened the governor, found the linkage to far clockwise, would not return to idle position. Found the accelerator linkage frozen, loosened it up, still having problems. When the governor is in the right position, idles beautiful, raise the throttle runs good til it needs more power, then the governor moves to far, starts bucking and missing, back firing etc. WTF. Any ideas?
 
To see if it is Fuel or ignition, take off the air intake rubber hose at the carb. Use a squirt (trigger type) oil can with gasoline in it. As it bucks and snorts, squirt fuel into the open intake. If it clears up and smooths out, or changes for the better, it is likely plugged up main jet. Jim
 
Did you say you found 1/2 a rag in the tank? I'd guess that the tank drain hole/line is partly plugged. When you shut it down or it dies enough fuel creeps through to fill the bowl again, then the slight suction from the carb pulls enough of the gunk down plugging the line to much to run, or bowl runs out.

Disconnect at the carb, attach a length of hose and blow back, this is a temporary fix(couple weeks/months), that give you a bad gas taste, clean all gunk out of tank for a longer lasting fix. Don't forget the screen in the carb.

If possible: try lightly tapping the governor linkage/tube when it starts to act up. Did that with a W6 (that was sitting for a while) and it cleared up after a while.
 
Agree with Cory's first paragraph as your most likely issue. The rest of his post is some good and some user beware. What you refer to as the water separator is usually called a sediment bowl on this era of tractor. So in affect what Cory is saying is the passage inside the threaded part that screws in the tank is plugged. So test this by pulling the drain plug on the carb and catch the fuel there. A pint a minute should be sufficient flow and should continue after the initial carb bowl drain. If there is not enough flow first check the screen behind the brass fitting of the carb inlet. If that is not the problem I would pull it out the sediment bowl and drain the tank direct the gas into bucket(s) with a piece of tin. Be extra careful not to short out the battery cables, might be smart to pull the battery off. Clean out the passage in the sediment bowl base and reinstall. Maybe even flush the tank with a gallon or two of gas. If you use a fine screen or lint free cloth to strain the gas it can be reused but let iit settle overnight. If there is a lot of crud in your tank you can also install a 3/4 to one inch high riser in the sediment bowl inlet to keep the crud in the tank bottom from plugging it so easily. If all this does not seem to help then 2x Hal's reply or try his suggestion first, but I really think blockage in the fuel supply to the carb float bowl is your issue.
 
Made sure the tank was clean, Has no rust. Removed the sediment bowl, lots of gas. Oops forgot to close the shut off. Had the carb rebuilt, cleaned the filter in the carb prior, gas drains well. Need to know how to stop the governer flipping to the full open and sticking there. It goes over the top center of the shaft and falls slightly over. Then it seems disconnected or stuck. I'm having an old fart (older than me) that grew up with them work on it. PS, it's a 110 mile ride each way to get pizzed off at it.
 
I also agree with Corey's first paragraph. We had the same issue with our Farmall H a few weeks ago. the 90 degree portion in the sediment bowl had gunk in it. We siphoned as much gas out as we could, then unscrewed the bowl from the tank and drained the gas out and ran it through a fine mesh filter to get the gunk out. Then flushed the tank out a bit more. Cleaned out the sediment bowl inlet, put it all back together and she ran line new.
 
The throttle position error is due to a single issue the linkage at the carb to governor tube is not correct the tang is not in the slot. It is difficult and tricky to get the tab in the slot. But I am sure it is your current problem. Use a LED light, and watch close as they go together. Jim
 
The throttle revs up when you move the governer appropriately, and everything seems fine. Then when you need more power (when mowing) the governer tells the carb to open up. However, the governer moves to far and gets past the top and gets stuck. When I first took it apart and played with it, the motor reved very high until I moved the governer back to the idle side. Never knew that I was Mostly idling all the time. (not enough to energize the alt) Boy was I surprised. PS thanks for everyone's help so far. Earl
 
The symptoms you describe are pointing to what I described in my post. The governor will let it idle, but it will not return to idle after opening and over revving happens. That revving will destroy the engine. Please actually check the little flange where the governor tube screws to the throttle shaft. The tube will move forward enough to see what is happening inside. Jim
 

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