head gasket leaks on farmall C113 and C123 engines

I have noticed quite a lot of posts concerning head gasket leaks with the farmall engines. I have not had the time to read all of the posts, but will tell of my experience with one cause of leaks.

If the head and block are flat within specs and the head gasket not bunged up there is a possiblity that leaks can occur from another problem.

I noticed that even if the head is torqued properly leaks can occur if the initial tightening seqence is not set up right.

What I found was that the stud nuts have to be uniformly finger tightened before any torque wrench is applied. If necessary use a caliper or feeler gauges to make sure the space between the head and block is equidistant at all four corners of the head. Also use an initial torque of only about 10 pounds and check the space around the head again before completing the torque sequence.

I had oil leaks when I replaced the head gasket on my super C the first time. I loosened the nuts and retorqued the head using the above set up and have never had any leaks since.

DL
 
i am a firm believer in clean clean.and in using permatex high tack sealer. and a light torque on the first go around.and yes
you must have light pressure on each stud first.cant be torquing with some nuts off contact from the head. but yes the torquing
in sequence is important. these cast heads have enough weight to them that i have never run into measuring with feeler guages.
sounds like your a Duetz guy. yes that may be more critical on those air cooled engines, with individual heads. they might even
be aluminium, not sure now. have taken into consideration that the head and block is in spec's due to warpage.
 
Rustred,

Hey. I was referring a Farmall Super C. If someone wants to take a shortcut and leave the manifold on it can shift the center of gravity to the left and cause oil leaks to the right side of the head. If I remember correctly I had the manifold off, and I think I finger tightened the nuts before torquing. This was why I used a gauge to make sure everything was equidistant. It could have been a slightly rusted nut ?, but after that I wasn't taking chances.

I use Hylomar. Over 100,000 Rolls Royce owners, the mechanics, families and villages they support couldn't be wrong. lol. That is about as close to one I will ever get. My apologies to Rolls Royce, designer and manufacturer of the Rolls Royce Merlin engine and kudos to Packard Motors for showing Rolls that Swiss watches could be mass produced.

As to Deutz. (and others) I still have to get used to degree/angle torguing as compared to load torquing. At least no water leaks.
 
I always use a three step procedure when torquing heads with one additional step just to make sure i didn't miss any. Don't recall ever having a problems with uneven torque setting on any head doing it that way.
 

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