Super A carburetor ID and fuel leak help

Claven2

Member
My Super A has a slow fuel drip from the bottom of the carb. I have the sediment bowl valve turned off and it still drips (slowly) so I think the valve in the sediment bowl may also be to blame.

First things first though - which barb is this? Is it a Zenith 161?

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This is my fuel system layout. It looks like someone added an in-line filter (previous owner). Not sure why.

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Can the sediment bowl be serviced to restore its ability to fully stop fuel flow, or should I just buy and install a new assembly? The local TSC sells something that looks more cheaply made but they say is a drop-in replacement.

I'm assuming the carb itself can just be rebuilt once I know the right model and order a rebuild kit - true?

Finally, does anyone know what these holes were for?
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The PO had used them to install a heavy angle bracket for a pull chain, which seemed dubious to me, so I removed it. Curious what it was for. I might use it for a SMV sign bracket or something like that.
 
looks like a zenith,but someone has installed a petcock to drain it for rust particles if I had to guess from the looks of the filter and sediment bowl assy, I've got one doing the same thing it won't completely shut off course it's been 40 years since it was replaced, best price I've found on a replacement is from this site,just put a carb kit in mine because if left overnight it would start to drip then flood when first started,last kit was installed the same time as the sediment bowl assy didn't have to shut of the gas after daily use until about a year ago,the chiminesse needle valve is already starting to seep after about 3 days of sitting it starts up slightly flooded so I will be buying a new sediment bowl assy and hope it works
 
The carb numbers are on that tag under the screw. i would replace the strainer. You can buy a brass screen that fits in the inlet
on the strainer. it helps keep the rust out of the valve so it will shut off completely.
 
They are the back bracket holes for raising the
cultivators (that's one use). Either bolt something in
them of put the bolts in there. If you don't they will
fill with junk. They are blind holes and you will have
fun cleaning them out about the time you do want to
use them.
 
The carb is a Carter. You can back the nut off the"L" arm then back the lever off reface the end and add packing where the nut tightens up to stop leaking around that lever. Replacements you are looking at will not allow the orginal line to fasten install a new screen and rubber gasket. The inline filter will stop fines that go thru the screen they in time can get plugged and need to be replaced but they do work great the drain on the bottom of the carb just mite need the packing nut tightened to stop the drip. Carb doesent need anything if it is working now. That nut on the drain mite also need some new packing. Thick cotton string can be used it works for me.
 
Take the sediment bulb along when getting new screen and gasket so you get a good fit as there are different sizes. Screen goes first then rubber gasket when installing.
 
(quoted from post at 00:16:10 08/18/15) Take the sediment bulb along when getting new screen and gasket so you get a good fit as there are different sizes. Screen goes first then rubber gasket when installing.

So to get this straight, if I clean the strainer assembly out well and install new screen and gasket, it should stop leaking fuel past it - is that correct?
 
(quoted from post at 00:12:41 08/18/15) The carb is a Carter. You can back the nut off the"L" arm then back the lever off reface the end and add packing where the nut tightens up to stop leaking around that lever. Replacements you are looking at will not allow the orginal line to fasten install a new screen and rubber gasket. The inline filter will stop fines that go thru the screen they in time can get plugged and need to be replaced but they do work great the drain on the bottom of the carb just mite need the packing nut tightened to stop the drip. Carb doesent need anything if it is working now. That nut on the drain mite also need some new packing. Thick cotton string can be used it works for me.

I don;t think the carb is leaking at the lever, looks to be at the petcock to me? It might just need tightening or packing/gasket, but if I fix the sediment bowl cutoff, a slight carb leak will be less of an issue.

Far as function is concerned, the carb is working.

I should get a new inline filter - will check the local NAPA.
 
No the lever on the sediment bowl assy that shuts off fuel at the tank as its not seating good or the carb wouldnt leak after shut off. Also the packing nut on the carb drain mite need a little tightening to stop the drip.
 

Looks like a Carter carburetor. Best advice I can give is to find a Zenith or Marvel-Schebler, either rebuilt or rebuild it yourself.

The rebuild kits for those Carters leaves a LOT to be desired.
 
You need to pull the fuel line off to know whether the sediment bowl valve is leaking. Just the fuel in the fuel line can make the carburetor leak for a couple of days. I like the cotton thread idea, I have used plumbing valve packing with good results also. The l valve seats open as well as closed so open it all the way each time. Lots of people don't like the inline fuel filters but I do. My method for cleaning a fuel tank is to install an inline filter and use the tractor. Sloshing gas will clean it up and keep it clean.
 
Old Threshers each yr has 800 or so tractors and realy a large amount of them do ude those inline filters i have used them for a long time as they do catch the fines the screen in the sediment bowl doesent. Li9ke you said gas sloshing around in an old tank does make problems. I just finished cleaning a tank that had set for two yrs in a shed cement floor and block walls used broken glass on my tumbler then soap and water unreal the junk that came out
 

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