200 distributor removal

clint s

Member
I want to remove the distributor on my 200 what is the easiest way to mark it so it goes back in time. I want to change and reset the points and change the condenser. Tired of fighting with the little screws and just want to do it on the bench. Do I just mark where the rotor is pointing on the body or do I have to get it to TDC and mark it.
 
I haven't ever removed a distributor on a 200 but what I like to do is time the motor to
TDC #1 and then mark the rotor position and the distributor base position. While you have
it on the bench take the plate off that holds the points and condensor and check the
counter weights and springs. Then put some light oil on them to lube them up a little. If
your distributor is the same as the one on my 450 there is a screw on the base where the
shaft turns. Remove that screw and insert a grease cert and grease it until grease comes
out of the little hole opposite it. Then put the screw back on. I like to fine tune the
timing on a distributor after I put in points but you really wouldn't have to.
 
So just mark where the rotor is pointing and remove the bolts and pull it out??


Well Gene , I have already removed it. In a brain fart I should of just pushed the old one out of the bracket, but idiot me removed the bracket.

Went to start it tonight and I had no spark. Cleaned the points. Checked for voltage at the coil from the ignition (which I have). I swapped coil for a known good coil with no change. I now want to swap out the points and condenser with a set I took off last year (ran fine with them in, just replaced due to a intermittent hard start issue which I still have) to see if they work.

I was frustrated and not thinking when I pulled the condenser bracket off. I could not get that little screw started to save my life. I will try and fart around with it tomorrow or the next day when I am in a better place. I hate to remove the distributor if I do not have to.
 
Do you have to take the distributor off to replace the points. NO, of course not. You can fool around with the screws, standing on your head and when you get done you don't know if the points are aligned properly or not. Also, you don't have to have it on top dead center. It just makes it a whole lot easier to properly time it if you do have it at top dead center. Either number one or four as long as you know and remember which one you are on by rotor position. With it off you can look over , clean up and lubricate the weights, check for excessive wear etc. Might find something that makes you really glad you took it off. Then when you put it back on, you insert it close to where it was positioned originally. Turn dist in normal direction of rotation of shaft when it is running, and then , hook up your wires, have coil wire out of cap, with switch on, hold coil wire close to a ground, turn dist against normal rotation. When points just break you should get a spark from coil wire, you have it static timed and you know if you have good spark or not. Do it right first time and it makes it easy, simple and right. No need to put a timing light on unless you know how much total advance you are supposed to have and are familiar with the required method of checking it.
 
NO need to add levels of complexity and more things to go wrong, muck up. LEAVE it in place and change the points, and leave the condenser alone, unless you have some reason to believe it's bad and a new one from "The Land of Almost Right" will be better.
 
It is a new one from that land last year leading me to believe it may be bad. I will try to get the screw in without. If not I will get it as close to TDC as I can with the finger test. Mark the rotor position and pull it out. As far as I know it has not been out, possibly ever. I have never greased it either. Do you put a zero in the hole that locks it in??

I may just go pertronix and be done with it. Hard starting sometimes and intermittent stalls followed by hard starting. usually clean the points and it fires quickly in either situation.
 
I still say take it off and do it right. You already say you get in there and clean the points when it conks out. That tells me the points have a problem. Put some good ones in properly aligned and set gap. Will also assure you that it is timed right which it could be all over the place now. Not complicated at all, just good sense & makes for good experience for the future.
 
All you have to do is mark where the rotor is pointing. Then remove the two bolts and remove the entire distributor assembly.

Don't crank the engine over after you remove the distributor.

Put it back on with the rotor in the same location as before.
 
(quoted from post at 10:58:05 08/17/15) All you have to do is mark where the rotor is pointing. Then remove the two bolts and remove the entire distributor assembly.

Don't crank the engine over after you remove the distributor.

Put it back on with the rotor in the same location as before.

Well after I had calmed down I got everything put in in about 15 minutes. Still no spark at the plug ends, but good spark from the end coil wire when I take it out of the distributor and open the points. So according to John T guide I have a bad cap rotor or wires. No spark at any wire so that kinda puts out the wires. Rotor seems like a good culprit, but a cap is in order too I guess. Pertronix is probably in the future too.
 

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