The shaft that extends out of the bolster is 7/8. It was slightly bent and is worn. My hand crank has a 3/4 inch opening. To use that crank, I made an adapter that fit onto the shaft. The bolster opening is very worn. One inch on the front and 1.2 on the back. I decided to replace that shaft with a 15/16 inch shaft, that I have turned the end down to 3/4, so that I could use the hand crank without the adapted.
If I hand cranked this tractor, as the expert said it should be cranked, I could crank all day and it would not start. If I started at the bottom and went over the top to the 2 o'clock position, it would start on either the first or second attempt.
I think someone has replaced this shaft in the past. (bad looking weld job). Here is my question. Could they have welded the shaft in place with the drive pin in the wrong location, in relation to the bracket on the other end?
Could this be why I need to go to 2 o'clock to get it started? Also I have not welded the new shaft together yet, and if it makes a difference, I would like to know now, instead of later.
Thank you
SDE
If I hand cranked this tractor, as the expert said it should be cranked, I could crank all day and it would not start. If I started at the bottom and went over the top to the 2 o'clock position, it would start on either the first or second attempt.
I think someone has replaced this shaft in the past. (bad looking weld job). Here is my question. Could they have welded the shaft in place with the drive pin in the wrong location, in relation to the bracket on the other end?
Could this be why I need to go to 2 o'clock to get it started? Also I have not welded the new shaft together yet, and if it makes a difference, I would like to know now, instead of later.
Thank you
SDE