Tips?: fix my '46 Fmall AI, or buy running A for $1,600?

DennisT

Member
I could use some feedback: First, I'm 72, bad back and don't work on machinery as I once did. Rats. Oh well. I have a 1946 Farmall AI. It had water in the head and the PO had a shop, "fix," it. (They pulled head, did the head, replaced and it ran) Sat at shop for 2 months before owner could get it. Then it again wouldn't start. I got it from him. Pulled spark plug and anti-freeze came out. So, "shop," did head and never checked for cracks is my take. No anti-freeze in oil pan. Tractor is straight, all original, wheel weights..even has original crank handle. Has turf tires as it was used in town. So will need new rear tires. If I keep it I'll have to have the repair work done by someone else.
NOW: I've been offered a 1940 straight A for $1,600. "Restoration," (of some kind) several years ago. Ran in parade within the past several months. Nicely painted, but a bit faded. New rear tires, has wheel weights, (in the one picture I've been sent it appears to have double front wheel weights). HAS mower and another implement, spring operated, (I've wanted that kind of thing - I presently have none). Haven't seen it; waiting for more photos. Quandary is if I buy the A, I can sell my AI, but it wouldn't be worth much needing an engine. But I'd gain something I can immediately use and it has implements. I don't know what either machine is worth in today's market. I like my old AI, and kind'of like the Industrial version, even though there isn't much difference, (mainly front axle). If I keep my $1,600, it would probably be enough to have someone else fix my tractor and look for spring implements, (don't know how hard they are to find...I could use a mower and maybe a cultivator).
After reading through this mess, anyone care to comment? I'm kinda stuck on all this. If I were rich, I'd keep both.
Dennis
 
I would fix what I already have.An A/AI with a bad engine is a 500 to 700 tractor(IMHO).You know what you have. But....Consider
the price of the new tires,wts,mower,etc.That changes the 'equation'.IMHO,It is always better to fix what you have that to buy an
'unknown'. Buy the tractor to get the equipment. keep it a while before you sell one or the other.
 
If you can't pull the head yourself I'd look at the "A" and try to get a few hundred off the price considering it does come with impliments. Paying shop rates for them to pull and repair a cracked head will blow through most of your budget before you've even spent a dime on tires or bought the impliments your want/need.
 
That could well be a simple fix or a big problem. Could be as simple as needing a head gasket due to them running it and not re-torquing the head or not torquing it to the new 85ft/lbs spec. Me I'd pull the head and have a look see
 
(quoted from post at 07:24:31 07/08/15) I could use some feedback: First, I'm 72, bad back and don't work on machinery as I once did. Rats. Oh well.


Dennis
oday we have such modern inventions like 'chain falls'.

If it were me at that stage of the game, I'd con someone to help me sister a board to the rafters for one, or a tree branch or even screw together an A-frame and pull the head.

By the way, I'm 61 and have 3 herniated disc's. I still crank things out, you just have to think things through and come up with some sort of a plan of action first.
 
im leaning toward getting the running a with the implements. it has new rear ties, prolly 600 for the pair, and a mower, not sure which, but if its a belly mower, a good woods 59 is worth 500 easy. go over and drive the tractor and put it thru its paces to see how everything operates. with the implements, 1600 aint a bad price. if you went to home depot, 1600 would get you an mtd lawn tractor. the a will do a lot more work in a day, and prolly still be running 30 years from now.
 
if you are needing a mower and cultivator; with a bad back, maybe you need to look at something with a 3 point hitch.
 
Whew! Lots of good comments. First, the tractor is 200 miles from here and I'm trying to do some opening negotiating before I drive that far. I do have a car trailer, so I can get it myself. I have a good friend that is buying stuff from the seller, and he's passing info on to me. I found out just now that he'd gone over yesterday and got two John Deeres. He didn't get my email in time to know where to look for the s/n on the Farmall. Rats. He did say it comes with a rear sickle mower that was sitting nearby. It needs a pitman arm, (wood), and a belt. Which means it's sat long enough to need more than that. What kind of bearings are in those things? The only other implement is a double plow, also sitting off the tractor. It's the kind that plows one furrow, then when you turn around you lift that one and drop the second plow to come back the same way.
BUT....he also said this is a manual crank start tractor ONLY. No place for a starter. So the next question for all of you is, can those early A's be updated to have a starter or is there no hole in the bell housing to mount it??????? Also must mean it has a magneto, which can be just fine...as long as it continues to work.
A good hand crank, "small," tractor can be OK to operate, but not sure if this deal is getting better or not. My friend again said the back tires are virtually new, "little rubber stems," still on the ribs. And he said it was one of the best looking tractors the fellow had to sell.
Oh, price has dropped to $1,500. And there may be other incidentals thrown in on the deal although they might not be for this tractor.
What can you all tell me about hand-crank-only A's????
Thanks again,
Dennis
 
If you are just wanting something ready to drive in parades, the A might be a good choice, but if you have a bad back, remember, it does NOT have hydraulics or a place to mount them.
 
I would say you are still shopping.
I would look into cashing in some favors to get your AI fixed right for now.
Go slow & easy you can get most of the light work done yourself, and ask for help when it comes time to pull it off.
Won't know much until you get your head stripped, magnafluxed, and pressure tested.
 
keep looking.
While crank starts are no big deal...at 72 with a bad back...why suffer.
After Ford N's, little A's are probably the most common old tractor I see for sale.
usually cheap too, though belly mowers and/or full cultivators will push the price up....considerably.

I'd fix yours while you wait. Even if you don't want to keep it, fixed = more money for you.
While fixing an old common tractor engine, keep a hard, no emotion, eye on the bottom line.
If it looks like $ will get crazy, unbolt stuff and swap in a used engine.
Got a SC like that here. motor was thrashed (sheared oil pump cam gear)
bought a used engine that I heard run and checked for water in oil...a weekends work...all good.

ps I'm getting old too. don't matter, if I can still drive a tractor, I can fix it.
Just have to get a little inventive sometimes to match the strength of the young fellas.
 
'If set up properly', a crank start A will start as easily as a pull type lawn mower. When cold a quick 1/4 turn will have it up running 80~90% of the time. If not a second stroke will have it running. When it's warm, a mild lift on the crank and as soon as the mag snaps, she's running.
 
Update: I passed on the old crank start A. It looks like I may have found a good used engine for my 1946 A, for around $350...running. I've decided a tractor I know is better than another unknown. I'm bad for,"saving," and bringing home things that need, "stuff." Don't need to do it again. I appreciate all the tips, it's at least gotten me off dead-center to work on my own tractor again.
NoNewParts: thanks for the post. I feel like you do. And, yes, I can get things done at my age and all alone without help, it just sometimes takes 10 times longer and I have to be clever.
Now to look for a couple, "manual," spring operated implements for my A. Have nothing to go with it at this point.
Cheers,
Dennis in E WA state
 

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