IH 674 CLUTCH REPLACEMENT PLUS

lazyadt

New User
Hello to all from beautiful NW Arkansas. This is my first, of hopefully many helpful, posts.

I am about to embark on my first tractor clutch replacement. The information from my research of this site has given me the confidence needed to give it a go.

The tractor is a [b:362abb0d56]1977 IH 674 Diesel[/b:362abb0d56], Row Cropper (?) with a [b:362abb0d56]Mount-O-Matic 2250[/b:362abb0d56] front loader. It has the adjustable rear hubs.

I have purchased the IH International Case 674 Dealer Service Workshop Manual and the IH International Case 674 Shop Manual.

My main question for the forum is what else to look into, replace, repair or otherwise maintenance while the tractor is split and down for repairs. Also, if any of you have completed this task and have any tips, tricks or things to watch out for, I would greatly appreciate your input as well. If anyone has, or would like to provide, a step by step procedure for the clutch replacement it would be helpful as well. My manuals may have that info, but having a back-up or alternate view is always a good idea.

I will also be repairing the park/hand brake. Any suggestions on this process would help too. I have an extensive background of mechanical maintenance and extensive repair. I am a little more experienced than the average DIY'er.

If I need to provide any further information to assist in your responses, please just let me know.
 
Hi, I have never done a clutch job on a 674 row crop but have done the utility models. We always do clutch(6 pad HD), pressure plate, release and pilot bearings and have the flywheel checked.
Also check rear main bearing for leakage. Not very difficult to do clutch job if there is no cab. We always take loader arms and frame off, put loader hydraulic control valves on foot rest.
Drive wedges between front axle and bolsters, HAVE PROPER SPLITTING STANDS. Disconnect battery first, if you are lucky there will be an electrical connector under the battery box that separates engine from
rear electrics otherwise you have to pull all the electrical cable from lights, gen/alt, temp gauge from the front of engine to rear part. Two fuel lines, supply & return, oil pressure gauge line, power
steering and oil cooler lines. Some have fixed steel hydraulic lines others have hydraulic hoses that have enough slack that engine can be separated from rear end.
When re-assembling, put clutch and pressure plate on the spline shafts on rear of tractor, align transmission shaft with pilot bearing as you roll tractor halves together. DON NOT FORCE by tightening the
bolts. Once guide pins are aligned then bolts can be tightened slowly and evenly BUT only use gentle force as if it is not going together easily something is wrong. Then pressure plate can be bolted to
flywheel through the inspect plate. The starter can be remove so a large screw driver can be used to insert in the ring gear and rotate the engine so the pressure plate can be bolted to the flywheel.

BE CAREFUL, USE CRIBBING and SPLITTING STANDS.

JimB
 
What jimb2 said plus make sure your pto drive shaft splines are not worn(these engage into the pressure plate).If they're worn,you'll need to replace the shaft.And as he said,support everything real good;I believe in rolling the rear half away from the front-keeping the front stationary.Mark
 
Just did the engine in one of our 674's last
winter. Easy split. You have some good advice
below. I ALWAYS do a rear main seal and front
trans seal when I have a tractor split. And I also
ALWAYS replace the throwout bearing and pilot
bearing when split. Just the way I am I guess,
just hoping I won't have to be back in there for a
long time. Also, on a 674, the pan being part of
the frame, is ALOT easier to get off when split.
That or pull/slide front end ahead. For the price
of the seals and bearings, I always figured it
was cheap insurance.

Ross
 
Well said Jimb2. But, a question. How is a 674 a row crop? I thought all the 74 and 84 series tractors were utilities. Was I wrong?
 
Hi, the row crop models have rear axles and 38" wheels with cast centers that clamped to the axles like the larger Farmalls.
I haven't seen many in North America but have seen a few in UK.

See photo of one at:

http://www.agweb.com/blog/Your_Favorite_Tractor_298/1975_international_harvester_674_row_crop_diesel/

JimB
 
Oh boy! That's exactly the kind of information I was looking for and needed. I intend to replace the rear main. The clutch kit came with both bearings.

Does anyone have a good source for the seals/gaskets? What's your opinions on using gaskets or some type of silicone RTV seal?

Any preventative maintenance done when doing repairs saves time in three ways: broke down in field, loss of work you were supposed to be doing, and tearing the tractor back down again where you already had it and scrimped on the parts before.

I will also be R/R the hand brake while this is all open. Any tips there? Any suggestions or recommendations for an online parts retailer? One who first has best parts, then knowledgeable sales and customer service and lastly good price.

Someone probably switched my wheels and tires out at some point. I have 18.4 X 30's. It seems to sit plenty level and looks pretty good.
mvphoto23707.jpg
 
Don't use silicon on anything. Silicon has a
nasty habit of getting in places it doesn't belong
once it squishes out, such as oil sump screens
etc. I use permatex aviation sealer on gaskets I
don't want to have a problem with, or are hard
to get to (if needed). I get my gaskets/seals for
my tractors and repair jobs from my local
CarQuest store. I replaced the park brake cable
on one of ours last winter, what a pain to get to
for such a simple thing. Some people might say
I'm wasting my time by fixing those other things
while I'm in there, leaking or not. I'll leave a
clutch if it is OK, but not the seals or bearings. I
don't like to do a job twice. One of our 674's has
16.9-30's, the other has 14.9-30's, both have
new F&R Firestones. Those are the sizes they
had on them when they came to the farm.
Tractor likes to spin though, not enough
traction for the power of either one. The one
with the 14.9-30's looks puny. 18.4-30's are a
good size tire, dad's W400D has them, and they
are a good gripping tire for that size Tractor.

Ross
 
Thank you all for the tips. I'm doing this job too. Rear main is leaking in to my starter. Any tips on changing the rear main seal and transmision seal?
Also 18-4-30 will be nice. Mine came 16-9 34 Dulles
 
I'll let you know how I changed them in a week or so when I get it tore down. I plan on taking plenty of pics. I've never done a write up on a repair. Might make time. Seems to be a common repair and due to its complexity, creates a bunch of questions. I try to research and educate myself on tasks such as this prior to diving in. Nothing I dislike more than getting machinery in pieces and not knowing the next step, seeing something different than expected or coming to road block and having to find parts and answers mid repair.
 
I am hunting for a digital copy of the Parts Manual. I am fine with paying full price, but have not been able to locate any download-able manuals. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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