Rear Wheel Weights vs. Loaded Tires

agauthier · Jun 29, 2015

Just got two brand new rear tires Titan 11.2-36 for my Super C. Pretty fancy. However, the old tires were loaded and also had wheel weights. We've got lots of hills where I live, so traction and stability matter. I am wondering if anyone has a guess how much weight I am losing by not having my new tires loaded? Can I just add another set of rear wheel weights and get anywhere close to whatever weight the calcium was adding?

Thanks,
Aaron in NH

the tractor vet · Jun 29, 2015

To equal the loaded tire with out really looking up the spec.'s i would guess you would need to add six or seven Do Nuts to each side to come close . I can tell ya this and here again with out looking up how much cal and water that on our 1066 i had to tear into the rear end on the 1066 and had to remove both back tires and wheels . To do this i used out New Holland lx665 Skid steer and it has a load handling capacity of around 1750 Lbs. maybe a bit more and hooked short up against the back of the bucket not the leading edge of the bucket even with the rear weight pkg. on the skid steer it was tippy and all it wanted with and 18.4x38 radil loaded . so it would take around 10-12 wheel weights to equal the Cal. And they would stick way out past the tires .

wolfman · Jun 29, 2015

If you have hills, the loaded tires is best by far. It would take 3 or 4 pairs of iron weights to equal the calciums weight. Most SCs had one set of wts and loaded tires. So empty tires, 4 sets of wts.

Stanhoist · Jun 29, 2015

Two wheel weights, 11.2-36 only holds about 350# fluid

Dave H (MI) · Jun 29, 2015

I just (ahem!), put one of the spikes on my box scraper thru a rear tire on my 300U. Did not see it coming but next thing you know there was loud pop and calcium started gushing out all over the place. Took it all apart and the rim was badly eaten away. Soooo...new used tire, new rim, bought a second tire because it was matching set, etc etc. Over $500 later I had to make the choice on loading the tire...I chose beet juice. First time. Set me back about $120. If you are working the tractor, I like to have the tires loaded.

Mark (EC,IN) · Jun 29, 2015

5# load is 360# a tire X2 tires = 720#/ 150# weight = 4.8 weights

So 3 on each wheel would have you better than before.
Ballest Chart

old · Jun 29, 2015

Think of it this way. Wheel weights put the weight on a air bag and fluid puts it on the tire it self. Me if I have a choice I'll go with fluid every time but I also use wiper fluid not CACL

L.Fure · Jun 30, 2015

(quoted from post at 01:36:10 06/30/15) Just got two brand new rear tires Titan 11.2-36 for my Super C. Pretty fancy. However, the old tires were loaded and also had wheel weights. We've got lots of hills where I live, so traction and stability matter. I am wondering if anyone has a guess how much weight I am losing by not having my new tires loaded? Can I just add another set of rear wheel weights and get anywhere close to whatever weight the calcium was adding?

Thanks,
Aaron in NH

I like using liquid ballast in my tractor tires, but stay away from calcium chloride. It's hard to keep it from seeping out of the valve on the tire. When it does it will slowly rot your rims. I now use a product called Rim Guard. http://www.rimguard.biz/.

Rim Guard weighs about the same as the calcium mixture, but won't rot out your rims. Here is a chart for the different size tires and their volume. Multiply the number of gallons by 11 pounds/gallon to give you how much weight will be added to each tire. http://www.andystireservice.com/ballast.htm

rustyfarmall · Jun 30, 2015

I have 4 sets of weights on my M. It has all the traction and stability I need with the Farmhand F 11 loader.

Considering the price the tractor jockeys are asking for those weights, liquid ballast might be less costly.

jal-SD · Jun 30, 2015

Remember with liquid inside the tire, your tire is always pulling (trying to lift) a "sloshing" weight. With cast iron or concrete around the axle, the weight is always in a continuous rolling motion, just like the fly-wheel on the crankshaft. More or at least the same momentum all the time. In most place where the ground is soft, the same weight of cast or concrete will you will get more ground covered in less time than you will liquid inside the tire. Plus, you don't have the rusting problem, My vote is for cast iron or concrete every time! (My $0.02 worth. jal-SD)

Rustmonger · Jun 30, 2015

I am surprised that no one has mentioned having the tires "Foam filled".
This is what I have been doing for several years, and it is one of the few times I have absolutely no anxiety about writing a large check. In Southwest Missouri, we have an overabundance of thorned locusts, and the thorns will go through a 14 ply trailer tire like it was an air mattress. A tractor tire wouldn't even slow one down. I haven't fixed a tractor tire in years, and as the other tires age out (cub cadet, Lull forklift, etc.) I buy new tires, then march up to the industrial tire place, and just hand him my checkbook. The filler is actually not foam, it is some sort of Polyurethane. There are a few drawbacks, the greatest being that once complete, the only way that tire is coming off is by being cut into pieces. I love looking at that old tractor with all of the nasty thorns sticking into the tires and just smile.

Chance M · Jun 30, 2015

Down south here we are lucky in that we just fill them with water to the top of the rim. I say use tire ballast and iron.

ejr-IA. · Jul 1, 2015

use wheel weights forget the fluid it is a power robber.

David G · Jul 1, 2015

I use both washer fluid and cast iron.

Rear Wheel Weights vs. Loaded Tires

agauthier

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the tractor vet

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wolfman

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Stanhoist

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Dave H (MI)

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Mark (EC,IN)

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old

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L.Fure

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rustyfarmall

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jal-SD

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Rustmonger

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Chance M

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ejr-IA.

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David G

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