What did I do wrong?

BruceS

Member
I converted my H from mag to distributor. Distributor has new points, condenser, and I have a good coil. Got new 2 terminal switch and wire to go to from that to junction box on #1 terminal (fuse).
Wire from "field" on generator is hooked to field resistor. No fire, no lights, tractor just turns over and starter button seems to get hot in a hurry. One question: does it matter which wire goes to which terminal on ignition switch? And one other thing: there is a 4 position switch (LHDM) which is presently installed. Do I need to get a 3 position switch instead? Any help appreciated.
 
On the four position sw when you go to a regulator the wire from field gen is not hooked to the four position sw
 
The 4 position switch should still be used used. The light switch component of that switch is used for the lights Dim (D) and Bright (B). The generator portion of the switch is separate. The field is directly grounded through the switch body to the electrical box and tractor frame when the light switch is in H D or B positions. The L position is grounded through a resistor on the light switch which reduces charge rate when the battery is charged and the lights are off. The cutout relay is often equipped with a resistor for use when the tractor has no lights, and thus no need to do more than maintain the battery. It should not be used when the 4 position light switch controls charge rate (through operator choice).
New points often have manufacturing coating on them that does not conduct electricity. This must be removed with a touch of lacquer thinner on a cloth over the tip of a small screwdriver blade. (very little solvent) then clean with a folded dollar bill to assure lint removal. Use a test light on the distributor to coil, side terminal on the distributor. When cranking, the light should flash. if it stays on the points are either not opening, or shorted to the distributor at the side terminal (bad insulator). If it does not light the points are still not conducting electricity. The starter switches made today are poor. It takes finding an OEM switch, or an expensive one, to keep from getting hot. In some cases the switch resistance is great enough to keep it from starting (it will turn over slow if that is the case). John T has a charging system analysis document in the archives that is step by step. Jim
 
The switch wiring is not important, either terminal to either wire. Make sure the supply wire comes from the load side of the amp meter. Jim
 


hot wire the machine and see if it will run. take a wire from hot side of battery, to battery side of ignition coil. try to start. if it starts, you are wired up wrong.
 
The field terminal on the gen should be attached to the light/charge switch (4 position) these should help. Jim
p50454.jpg
 
Jim, thanks for replies. For clarity, here's the setup: 4 position switch with builtin fuse, generator, voltage regulator. Have new wire running from #1 terminal (attached to fuse) to terminal on ignition switch. Other terminal on switch going to negative terminal on coil. Am still unclear where to connect wire from "gen. field" to light switch.Which terminal? As of now, tractor is dead. No power to anything, it seems. Not even the headlights work. They should work independently of ignition switch, right? They used to work when I had the mag setup. Seems the whole electrical system is comprimised probably by something I did or didnt do. Could somethng in the distributor be part of the problem?
 
No, the distributor will not cause that issue. Here are some verbal steps: From the starter switch (big pushbutton) there are 3 connections. A big battery cable connects to the battery hot terminal, and the input side of the switch. A second 10 gauge wire connects to the same terminal on the switch and to the amp gauge input (the only wire there). Be sure it is clean/shiny connection at both ends. Another big battery cable goes to the starter motor terminal from the other switch connection clean/shiny connections both ends. The amp gauge second terminal (load side of amp gauge)has several connections. A 10 gauge wire runs to the regulator Bat terminal. A 12 gauge wire goes to the light switch/fuse (note, if the regulator you have has a "L" terminal, that terminal connects to the light switch fuse (12 gauge), and there is not one from the amp gauge). An additional 12 gauge wire from the load side of the amp gauge goes to the ignition switch. The other terminal on the ignition switch connects to the coil.
Because (with this clarification I realize you have an actual voltage regulator) the generator is controlled by a real voltage regulator, and not a cutout, the field wire is attached to the F terminal on the Voltage regulator. It is not connected, as described earlier, to the 4 way light switch. The Voltage regulator Arm terminal is connected with 10 gauge wire to the Generator Arm terminal. The 4 position light switch will have 2 positions that are not used at all, and as a redult are effectively "OFF" these are L and H. The regulator is now in full control of the generator. I was under the impression it had a curout relay only, in which case the 4 position switch is used for charge cotrol. Jim
 
Jim: Thank you for all your time spent on this. This is a newly restored tractor with a new wiring harness, and was working perfectly before mag was removed and distributor installed. Why it would suddenly quit working now is quite baffling. Maybe a short somewhere??? Tractor turns over normal cranking speed. Rotor turns normally. Just no spark anywhere.
 
if the points are not working to make and break, or are shorted to the housing at the through stud, it will fail. Also the #1 cylinder needs to be on compression, not exhaust! Jim
 
The simplest way to check to see if the points are working is with a test light. With the switch on the test light should light up when touching the wire at the coil that is connected to the ignition switch. The other terminal on the coil may or may not light depending upon whether the points are open or closed. Connect the test light from the distributor terminal to ground and crank the engine. If the points are working properly the test light will flash on and off as the points open and close.
 

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