450 wiring diagram

Does anyone still make wiring diagrams like they were doing a few years back, if so here is my wiring layout and some pic if someone could please make me a diagram to help me trouble shoot this.

Generator: A- light blue to voltage regulator “GEN”
F- Yellow to voltage regulator “F”

Coil: + Pos -Black to start push button
- Neg- Black to distributor

Voltage Regulator: GEN light blue to generator “A”
Batt- grey to ammeter discharge side
L-Green to fuse, nothing else connected to this wire
F-Yellow to generator “F”

Solenoid: “Batt Post” has 2 wires, wire #1 is Positive cable from battery, #2 red to ammeter charge side.
“S” Orange to start push button
“I” empty
2nd post brass strap to starter
Ammeter: “C-side post” red to solenoid “batt”
“D-side post” grey to voltage regulator “Batt” post

Start Push Button: Black to coil + positive, orange to solenois “I”

Toggle switch: Note: tractor no longer has a key, replaced with toggle. 2 black wires, one going to the discharge side of the ammeter, 2nd going to the black wire on the start push button. The wire going to the ammeter is the one that caught fire today.

Battery: 12 volt neg ground.

They are not too complicated if you wanted to run new wires yourself, I have done it a few times when trying to keep the project cost down. If you want to buy a very nice original style wiring harness, spark plug cables or battery cables, The Brilliant Company is about the best.

The owners manual should have a wiring schematic in it. Mine does for my 400D at least. I just completely rewired it last weekend from it.

Owners or parts manual. Parts manual may be better unless you get the correct operators manual for the tractor.
6 volt and 12 volt positive ground was used. If its a gasoline tractor that came 12 volts the extra terminal on the starter switch was for a wire from it to the coil side of the coil resistor for more juice when starter was engaged.
Ones that were 6 volt originally only had one small terminal on the starter switch.
Late parts manuals will show both types. Also you can find the parts manual ones on line.

I have what you want, I just cant upload it here, its in a pdf
e-mail me and I will send it

I hope this worked

try again

heres another one

Bill, you did not provide an email address but mine is provided in this reply if you would email those to me so I can save a larger version. Thank yoy very much!

(quoted from post at 17:25:56 06/20/15) I have what you want, I just cant upload it here, its in a pdf
e-mail me and I will send it

Click to expand...

My name is Nick Oster, I saw this post and think it can help me too. I'm working on the starter on my 450. I put a new cylinoid on it. Now it does nothing. I have a wiring diagram, but it shows more wires than the tractor had originally. It has a one wire alternator 12 volt. My e-mail is [email protected], I would appreciate any help.

Hello Nick welcome to YT! My best guess would be you have the two wires for the small terminals swapped around. Do you have a test light or volt meter? The wire that comes from the starter push button should go on the ..S.. terminal of the solenoid. When you push the starter button with the key on it should have voltage. The other small wire that goes on the ..I.. runs to the ignition coil side of the resistor. If they did a ..butcher job.. on the wiring they may have eliminated this last wire. It will run without it but helps it start better by raising the ignition voltage during starting. Be careful working on the starter always make sure the transmission is in neutral.

Sir, I used the diagram below, I labeled all my wires so I wouldn't have to walk around my tractor so much. It still won't do anything. I used my test light to make sure it's getting fire. I have a quick question, should both sides of the starter button have fire when key is turned on? Also my coil is very warm.

This post was edited by nickat on 07/25/2023 at 03:30 pm.

Where did you get the solenoid. I think it may be the incorrect one for your tractor. Does it have an ..S.. and an ..I.. by the small terminals? If not that would be the first indication that it is not right but not a fail safe way. I would say you have one that one small post is the energize terminal and the other is the ground for the magnetic coil that pulls the solenoid closed. Disconnect the wire from the solenoid that is going to the ignition resistor. Make a short wire that you can place on that terminal of the solenoid, just wrap around it and snug the nut down. Hopefully the solenoid is bolted to the starter which it would need to be to make the correct one work. Hopefully it has a nice plated bracket you can touch the other end of your wire to after you strip it a bit for a momentary test ground. Again make sure the tractor is in neutral, stand by the starter and push in the start button then touch that stripped end to the bracket or a good ground. If my suggestion is correct about the incorrect solenoid the engine will crank. Beyond this I will send you a email.
EDIT: Email sent!

This post was edited by used red MN on 07/25/2023 at 04:54 pm.

Jim, thanks for mentioning that about why the coil was getting hot. I meant to mention to him during testing he should either rotate the engine until the points are open or disconnect one of the primary leads.
Nick, because you replied to an old post the Classic View of this forum does not alway sync all the replies. If you choose Classic View you will see Jim s post that he replied to me with. It is a broken system the moderators keep threatening that they are going to fix.
Edit: Whoops made a mistake, Jim replied to you.

This post was edited by used red MN on 07/25/2023 at 07:40 pm.