300U PTO adjustment ?? questions

350 dave

Member
The rain has stopped for a couple days, now to get it put back together. Paragraph # 208 of the I&T manual says "hold the operating lever...punch marks align". I can see no punch marks, on pawl or quadrant. I have removed fender and handle mount. My "handle" has 2 very deep notched positions. Pretty sure one is OFF (down)and the other in ON (up).
So.. Question #1- can I assume that the "ON" position (up-in notch) is the same has having the dots aligned?
2nd issue- the adjusting bolts (screws): Paragraph 208 says "back them off 4 turns", then align dots and then "turn in until reasonable tight". What does that mean? This is an old rusty salvage PTO. I have run those adj bolts in to bottom out and all the way out several times to clean up the threads.They get "reasonable tight"about 1/2 in. So.. question #2 Should I just run those adj bolt in until the conditions are meet as outlined in Paragraph 208? With handle in up position.
again thanks so much
 
The lever is positioned 1/2 the distance between the two ends of travel (the place where the index marks are supposed to be but usually are not) The following material should help.
The bands that stop the output shaft are not adjusted correctly, or the lever and linkage that control the band are worn or have lost motion, or the band is worn out and cannot be adjusted, or the Drive band is adjusted so tight that the unit is on all the time, and has burnt off the brake band.
If you can rotate the PTO with the tractor OFF with a pipe wrench on the shaft, with it in Stop (locked forward with the push button on the stick) the first place to look is the linkage. lost motion is common in the pivot, and in the link to the actuator on the side of the unit.
If it rotates, the drive is not in the ON condition that would power an implement.
Adjustment can be found in the archives -- 300 PTO Jim

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Janicholson

10-18-2011 14:42:20




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Re: 350 Farmall PTO will not shut off in reply to Janicholson, 10-18-2011 14:00:06
The linkage on well used PTOs on the utility series become dysfunctional after years of use.
Two suggestions:
Make very sure there is no lost motion in the hand lever pivot and rod mechanism. Be certain the hand lever moves the PTO lever from the middle both ways.
Adjust it like this, after there is no play in links.
Move the lever exactly half way between the locked on position and locked off position (little flipper catch on lever.
Take off the little dome metal cover from the adjust screws.
Loosen the jamb nut, and tighten the front (away from you) screw until it is just a bit tighter than the point at which it begins to feel tighter as it is screwed in (maybe a eighth turn) then back it off until the PTO shaft will turn with least drag (about 3/4 turn out) and tighten the lock nut while holding the adjuster.
Do the same for the closer adjuster.
If the screws go into the jamb nuts and get flush with the top surface of the nut, the bands are probably worn out, and may be operational for a while, but plan on a rebuild.
Now (tractor off) push the the lever down toward the brake footplate. As it goes down, it should get harder to push when it is about 4" (or so) away from fully OFF. and be noticeably harder to push for the last inch, but not real hard. (this is the brake band tightening on the drum in the PTO unit.
Then pull it up and do the same feel.
The ON position should feel the same way.
The shaft should turn pretty free when the lever is half way, and not at all when in either ON, or OFF. (tractor shut off)
If it slips now, it needs a rebuild. JimN
 
WOW Jim, that really explains a lot. I assume that if the linkage is a bit sloppy, I can tighten it up with the threaded "y's" on the link to the actuator, yes? 1/2 way up to engage, that makes a lot of sense. We'll try it.

thanks again
dave
 
You can assume that if you want, but I assumed that same thing a year or two back and made myself crazy. In addition to everything else, make sure the key that holds the handle in place on the shaft is solid in it's slot and there has been no wear to the key way. The linkage can be just fine but if the handle is not solid on it's shaft there will be too much slop in the linkage and you will never get the bands adjusted. You will get them where you think they should be and the handle will slip a tiny amount and you will be off again. BTDT.
 
DaveH thanks for the heads up. I will check that out. I really hate doing stuff over and over, chasing ghosts.
looks like another day....
 
The wear in pins and clevises are also subject to wear. Fit new and or enlarge to assure tight no slop motion.
 
I am not sure what you mean by "half way up to engage"
You will put it in the center of travel (possibly bungy it there)while doing the adjustment as described. As Dave pointed out all slop must be removed from the linkage (not by adjustment, but by fixing the looseness. Be careful with the Woodruff Key at the lever to shaft it is not fixed by tightening the nut, it is fixed by using a Dremel tool to make the pocket and slot bigger for a new key. No slop, not bigger is ok. Very precise. A machine shop can do the work. Jim
 

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