khouse6

Member
i need to remove and replace an M farmall carb. any complicated things? never been into one. this one has a tube going from govenor to carb.
 
Remove gov. tube screws from carb, slide tube back a little, disc. choke rod, gas line, 2 nuts to manifold. Helps if you have a 9/16 wrench similar to these.
a192913.jpg
 
not hard to remove, just have to get the governor tab in in its slot when u are installing the governor tube.
 
Any time you remove and or do any thing to the carb you then have to also do the gov adjustment or it will not govern out as it should. O-T manual has almost a full page that explains it
 
?? I've never done anything to the governor on the H, M up except the to be sure it is connected to the carb correctly. The factory wired the governor indicated they didn't want anyone messing with it. Nothing happens to the governor until a part wears out, usually years. This also covers the adjustment under the hood. I did adjust that on my Super M because I put new parts in the gov.
 
Then why is there a big write up in the I-T manual that explains it?????????????????????
 
Is it the one specific to the M? I suspect it covers more than the M and the manual refers to several models. Most likely youre thinking about the A,B, or C series?? Hs and M s require no adjustments to the governor from simply removing the carbs(s).
 
It is quite specific for an H or a M, if your gonna do the carb up, you might as well make sure the low and high idle are set to spec as well...the governor spring has probably had it anyway,probably half of the symptoms blamed on the carb. Slam a new one in and get the most out of your job well done.
 
removing and replacing the carb has nothing to do with the governor adjustment. it is factory sealed with a tag so they can tell if it has been tampered with. about the only adjustments are the high and low speed idles.
 
All you need to do is read the first sentence in paragraph 161. It says to adjust the carb first, meaning you can't adjust the governor if the carb is not correct. You read it backwards.
 
The adjustment that normally should be checked when removing and replacing a carb on H or M etc. is the length of the vertical rod to horizontal link to carb. It can and does change when you loosen things up. Lot of guys don't loosen the two screws at the governor and often end up with a binding action and wonder why tractor hunts or is sluggish. Just good practice to check the adjustment. If you do check that adjustment and it is way off you know you missed the tang at carb end. If this guys tractor runs wide open when started that tells you the tang did not get into the slot at carb end.
 
You didn't get your little Govenor tang into the carb slot, so the butterfly is willy nilly [wide open], take it part look in there with a flash light, you will see what i mean !!
 
I maybe thinking of the 450 since I have had to adjust a 450 gov/carb a few times in the past that a friend owned
 
I'm having the same issues. The tang is in the right position and the linkage is all working correctly. There is some play in the linkage from wear, but everything was working properly prior to carb rebuild. *it should be noted that I'm helping a neighbor with his M. The throttle is at about med range throttle. I can manually move the butterfly to wide open, but the linkage/throttle control will not move it to idle position again. Does the vertical/horizontal adjustment on the governor need to be adjusted? Thanks
 

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