Farmall 450- Which clutch pedal do I need?

RBoots

Well-known Member
I am working on a 450 my dad bought about a year and a half ago. It is a time filler project that I work on when I feel like it/have extra time. I resealed the power steering motor, fixed all the engine oil leaks, fixed a radiator leak, freed up the hand crank mechanism, cleaned up and put new brushes in the starter, and I am currently rewiring it. Anyway, the guy he bought it from was handicapped and had modified the original clutch pedal so that it would come back farther, alongside the platform. It wouldn't work with the T/A unit, so he disconnected it when he modified the pedal. Went to Worthington's and they sold me the pedal they said was "correct". I put it on, but it doesn't seem to work quite right, no matter how its adjusted, the pedal hits the yoke on the clutch rod before full release of the clutch, and tries to bend the clutch rod. Even the correct pedal casting number would help. We used to have another 450, but I don't remember what the pedal was like. I also feel that this one feels like it comes back uncomfortably far. I believe the one that I need is like the one on our 460 D in the second pic below. The third picture is of the clutch pedal on my grandpa's Super M that I need to get going again as it has been setting in the same spot in our barn since he passed 4 years ago. I have been able to at least test the T/A in a hard pull and make sure it works, so that part is promising. Thanks for any help guys!

Ross
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The middle picture looks correct to me. The platform looks cut away on the bottom one.


363358R2 is the CaseIH part number listed. Jim
 
366331R1 is casting number also used on 560 farmall. They are different from a 400 that has a tapped hole at bottom for a limit stop bolt. Also the distance from the pivot point to rod pin hole is different. Rod is different from a 400 also. Just to make sure you probably have all 450 parts see if the T/A clutch operating shaft starts with # 366 and not 359.
 
I just looked at the 450 I am working on and took some pictures. I did not see a part number on mine but I probably just missed it. I measured from the pin that the clutch rod attaches to the center of the center hole and the clutch pedal. I got 10" and 18".
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Forgot picture. Top is 450 and bottom 400. They are the same except at the two locations I mentioned as you can see in the picture.
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I just looked up the part numbers for the clutch pedal in my TC-55 400/450 parts book. Original 400 part# is 363358-R2 and the 450 is 366331-R1. Hope this helps. Al
 
The platform on the SM probably is cut away.... Sigh.... My Grandpa was a cobbler, he should have been a shoemaker lol. Is that part number going to be cast into the pedal, or are the casting nos totally different than the part nos?

Ross
 
The pedal on my 450 seems to have the same rearward curve to it, and it seems as the guys at Worthington's told me it was off a 560 but it was the same as a 450. Man, it just seems that the top of the pedal is a long ways back, like the T/A lever is almost in the way of your foot when it is ahead and you are trying to push the clutch in. I'm going to pull the pedal off again tomorrow and see what nos I have. The yoke on the rod that is hooked to the clutch arm, is my adjustment problem. With the pedal halfway down, the gap between the pedal and the top of the yoke disappears, and the pedal is exerting enough force on the top of that yoke, that it is bending the rod from the pedal to the release arm at the bellhousing. I tried to grind as much as I could off the top of the yoke on the rod between the petals that the pin goes through, and even though I know I shouldn't have had to do that, it didn't only help but a fraction. Thanks guys

Ross
 
I hope it IS the right one, as after I had to buy it, I took it to a machine shop to have it bored and a bushing installed. Was going to cost $35 for that. When I got it back, no bushing, they had brazed it up and rebored it. When I questioned them about it, they said they didn't have a bushing on hand that size, so they did this instead. Cost? About $125, as it took them a long time to braze it up. I could have done that at home! And, I wanted a bushing for ease of future replacement. I was a little furious, but paid the bill and got on my way. Anyway, I can live with the pedal, I just need to figure out why the yoke won't allow the pedal to come all the way forward, not anywhere near the stop on the bottom of the pedal.

Ross
 
A good machine shop should have been able to turn out a new bronze bushing to fit. They should have called you to see if it was ok to do it that way.
 
This is a stab in the dark but you said they had done some cobble work to clutch. Is it posible they put a differant length yoke on it??
 
On the 450 one, top in the picture you can see the 1 after the R1. 363331R1 on pedal. Also you can see this ones machined on both sides for a little more yoke clearance. Same yoke is used from M on up.
FYI M tractors are different until disc brakes then another pedal used until SMTA. SM type pedal will replace a band brake M but a spacer is used on the shaft. SMTA pedal a one use. 400 pedal will replace a SMTA pedal but they have a different shape. Then a 450 and 560 pedal.
 
My old man did the same thing. You could change the platform and put everything back to "normal".
 
D. Slater, I have a question for you. I have a 400 that had a new TA put in it. It was used for tractor pulling and didn't have many hours on it when I purchased it. About six months after I bought it I noticed the TA lever would be in the low range position and the tractor would shift into high range with the lever back. Found out that the pressure plate fingers were set back and the throwout bearing wouldn't push the fingers far enough to release the TA clutches. We adjust that and it was good for about a year or so. I just noticed it not coming out of gear so we went to adjust it again and the fingers again are set back towards the reaar and you can't get enough adjustment to release the TA clutches. My question is there something else that could be causing this or do I have a bad pressure plate? Hope you get this message. Thanks ED
 

Central Illinois' pics of his 450 pedal looks same as yours...are you sure you just don't need to adjust your linkage ?? And your platform doesn't appear to be cut/modified in your pics or in comparison to his.

Bummer on the machine shop...think they'd owned a 450 clutch pedal and myself another aswel, lol.
 
Well, it appears that I DO have the correct pedal.
I adjusted the linkage back and forth each way.
The only way I can get the pedal stop to hit the
brake housing or whatever it contacts, and not
get the yoke to bind against the pedal, is to
adjust it with very, very little free play. I had the
front end off replacing timing cover gasket, all
other front gaskets, and the front main seal, and
have not yet taken the blocks out from under
the clutch housing or let the front end back
down on the ground, so I can't get to the bottom
cover to see exactly how much free play I have
in there. I do believe now that I have a throw out
bearing issue, that is why the adjustments are
so out of whack. Wasn't noisy, but I've had
them like that before and be toast. The 450 we
used to have did not have a T/A, it was factory
deleted on that tractor, so I probably just didn't
notice how annoyingly close the clutch pedal is
from the T/A lever when the pedal is back and
the T/A lever is ahead, only about an inch or so
of clearance.
So, I know I have the right pedal now, even
though I believe one like on the Super M would
be more comfortable for me, and I'm pretty sure
it's just something in the throwout bearing, or
maybe the pressure plate fingers are wiped out,
we'll see when we get there I guess. Right now I
am resealing all of the hyd unit and lines with
new gaskets and o-rings, so we'll look at the
clutch more in depth when I'm done with the
hydraulics. Thanks for all the help identifying
the pedal and all the info guys!

Ross
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If you start a new post, you will get more answers. I think the TA pp is going bad. If the adjustments are at their limit, the PP pivots and contact points are probably not happy. The friction (driven) plate wear will go in the opposite direction causing smaller finger clearance. Wear of the linkage pivots and link pins is also common, and will show the same effect. Jim
 
Yes would suspect a problem with the PP. Clutch lining coming loose is another possibility but they don't last long after that happens. Weird things can happen if the clutch carrier retaining nut gets loose and starts wearing center clutch plate hub rivets off also.
Forgot to add that if heavy springs were used in the pressure plate for pulling, more stress is put on the fingers and related parts.
 

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