splitting a 2444 with 2050 loader and 3121 backhoe

Stone2.0

New User
Hi,I am new to your forum AND tractors.I bought a gas 2444 from a cemetery. Had it shipped home.clutch is slipping.they have JBwelded an area just behind inspection cover? I was told it needs an oil seal (trans shaft seal)? I can travel in 1 low 50 feet tops.got it on level dirt for split.I have read every resource I can find while waiting for a manual.I have a engine hoist,jack stands,cribbing,2 inch angle iron to hold the bucket up,wedges for the axle,etc.I am asking for some help.I don't want to be spoon-fed.I'm in SoCal.(you are supposed to laugh)people dont know tractors around here.I am splitting by myself.I don't want to get hurt.I don't want to get my a#* kicked by a tractor that is 6 years younger than me.don't want to break obsolete parts.ready?#1why is jbweld on the leading edge of the trans@the inspection cover? Maybe to prevent throwing fluid on the dual clutch?(Havent removed cover yet,it's semi-welded)#2 am I supposed to remove the weights(640 lbs)@the front axle so the engine doesn't tip?#3am I to drain the trans.or at least get fluid below the shaft seal level?or am I removing the cast? Lower trans.cover on the bottom just to chip off/Inspect leak?I'll post a pic of the jbweld job.#4is there already a 2444 loader backhoe splitting post?I am really excited.I own an international harvester industrial tractor!
 
I do not recommend working on level ground. Level concrete or pavement is really important to assure realignment and stability while apart.
Splitting stands (google) are needed to allow the front to be wheeled away from the rear. Wooden cribbing (4X4s and bigger timbers) are needed to support the rear at the trans. Cement or slump blocks fracture and are deadly. Purchase a repair manual (this site or Ebay)
#2 Removal of the weights is probably advisable. Where the axle comes out from under the front casting (bolster) it is best practice to wedge the axle on both sides to prevent tipping the front to the left or right. Hard wood wedges made to fit tight with a shallow angle, and hammered in so they do not pop out will work. The front wheels and axle are thus being used as a stabilizer.
#1 The JB weld was likely applied to the outside because the operator/fixer decided that to fix a leak, you must plug it up. The chamber being sealed up is a dry chamber with the clutch in it. There may be oil in there, but it is not supposed to be.
#3 Yes, but to be sure the seal you are replacing is trans, put a drop of engine oil and a drop of trans fluid on a clean copier paper, this will assure you are working on the correct seal.
#4 Creating a Patio slab to do this is warranted. Jim
 
Hi Stone2.0, to add to what the other Jim has said.
Link to caseih parts for 2444: http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr50024ag53103
Although we had three agricultural versions of the 2444 from 1962 thru 1995, we never had to split one but have split other
models with and without front end loader. Always had to remove loader boom and loader frame to do the split. I am not familiar
with the 2050 loader and don't know if the frame connects to the rear axles or not and how difficult to remove loader frame.
Other things to consider:
1) Where can the hydraulic lines be split?
2) Does it have a dual or single stage clutch? Dual stage is more complicated to re-install and adjust.
3) Where can electrical wiring be split? Or do you have to pull it all back from the front of tractor?
4) Is transmission used as hydraulic reservoir? Hytran hydraulic oil or 90W gear oil?
5) Gas line should be one line to carb?

Hope this helps
JimB
 
Where are you at ? I'm in Socal too , near City
of Industry / Rowland hts. In case you need a
3rd hand...
 
I changed clutch in my 3444 with 3141 hoe a few yrs ago. I first dismounted backhoe
attachment (4 pins and 2 hoses) and set it aside. Then put Jack stands under frame rails
and removed bolts from rails to axle housing. Disconnect hydraulic hoses and wires bell
housing bolts and roll rear end back with floor Jack. Front bucket on ground will hold
front end in place. If on dirt use 3/4 plywood under Jack stands and floor Jack.
 

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