Can't Start International Harvester Model 350??

For some unknown reason, at least to me, my 1957 International Harvester Model 350 Utility has decided not to start? It was running great after some earlier issues and worked wonderfully last Sunday. Parked it for a couple of days and when I went back to use, it would not start. It is finally warmer in New England and I wonder if I am flooding it? It cranks over, but will not actually start. The thing that concerns me is that there is gas dipping from under the carburetor while I try to start? I have tried for a few days in a row now with no success. I try not to chock, but it will not start. I chock a little and turn the throttle up to mid range, but no start and the gas drips out of what looks like a drain hole in the bottom of the carburetor? I am a rookie in the tractor ownership so I appreciate any thoughts. One day it was running fine, the next not so fine.

Are you sure your getting spark to the spark plugs? When you pull the plugs out, are they wet? If so, that's a good sign these no spark.

Do you have spark?

I wonder if your cap has got moisture in it

Shut the gas off. Sounds like float is letting to much gas in. I would say its flooded.

Not sure if my cap has moisture or not, I do not think so? I can't seem to get my spark plugs out because the size is too large for my spark
plug wrench? Is that possible or do I need a deeper socket? The plugs seem to be larger than my largest socket. Did they make a larger
size plug in the 1950's? I will try to pull the plug and check for wet and spark. Maybe I need a different socket for my wrench? Thanks.

I had trouble with the 300U this Spring. You are certainly flooding it. Start by pulling the plugs and make sure they are clean. Get a cheap spark tester or play the game where you hold the plug with pliers...I prefer the cheap spark tester that clamps onto the ground and you plug the wire onto it. Either way, make sure you have good spark. Don't give it too much throttle when starting. Mine likes to be just at idle or a little above. If it tries to fire but doesn't quite make it, pull the choke and give a couple cranks but don't go crazy. If you are cranking until gas runs out you are wasting fuel. If my suggestion doesn't help, by the time you have tried it someone will have given you another that might. Good luck and remember, it ain't rocket science.

You will need a 7/8 " deep socket to remove the plugs .

All the old Farmalls will drip gas from the carb if you crank them and they don't start. Like others have said I'd start with seeing if you have any spark. Do you have a 12 v or 6 v system. If you have a volt meter see if you have 6 v going to your distributor.

12 volt system and I do have 12 volts at the distributor.

Thanks, it is close, but does not start. I will try to pull the plug once I get the correct socket. It seems like rocket science in my rookie season I realize that owning an old tractor will require constant maintenance. I will be learning a lot for sure.

I believe my larger socket is a 13/16"? I know it is not a deep socket. I will pick up a 7/8" deep socket today. Thanks.

You shouldn't have 12 volts at the distributor as they were made for 6 volts. There should be a resistor to cut the voltage if using a 6 volt coil or no resistor is using a 12v coil. There is a good chance your points are burned up.

Sorry, my bad. I have 12 volts at the incoming wire to the coil. I will test the distributor as suggested. Sorry about the confusion. I am learning as I go. Thanks.

The 'right' socket is a 7/8 deepwell.

The 7/8" socket worked like a charm and I was able to remove the plugs. They did have some carbon buildup on them. I cleaned them the best that I could with some sandpaper and a knife. I also purchased a spark tester yesterday. After pulling each plug and cleaning them, there was oil/gas around the screw part of the plug which I also cleaned off. I put all plugs back in and removed the closest wire to the battery that I could reach. I hitched the spark tester to the negative ground on the battery and the other end to the spark plug wire. I set the tester to 10MM and gave it a try. I did not choke at all and I put the throttle at 3/4 on full. I did NOT have a spark that I could see. I tried to close the gap on the tester, still nothing. I put the spark plug wire back on and tried to start, just in case I missed something. No start!! I did not choke it and it did not leak gas from under the carburetor. Small progress. Any thoughts as to where I turn now? Thanks for any and all help, I appreciate it.

I forgot to mention that 3 of the spark plugs were Autolite # 3116 and the other was a Champion D16? Not sure if that would matter. It has started and run well lately until this most recent issue.

Sounds like it is time to learn about points. I assume by there being mismatching plugs that a complete tuneup is in order. Your shop manual will give you the details on this.
J

if you have a ballest resister in the in
gnition system it might be that, that will lead to no spark and they fail out of the blue. some people pit a 12 volt internal coil on tractors when they convert them, so 12 volts at the coil could be correct. I agree with the tune-up answer. you might want to "file" the points with a match book or just scrape the surface with a knife blade

Good grief!! That is what I thought someone would say. Believe it or not but the previous owner was a mechanic. A friend of mine locally
told me that I needed to be extra careful as I move through this tractor The problem is that I am a rookie, wet behind the ears to say. I
am willing to learn, but this seems pretty large to me right now. I do have a Shop Manual and an Owners Manual that I will look at. I will
also look on the internet. I will start with points? Thanks again for all of this knowledge, very helpful. Please send any thoughts that
anyone might have as to where to start first. I will begin the research.

With no spark, the issue can be diagnosed easily. You indicated 12v at the input to the coil. (should be the positive small terminal if negative ground (alternator) or negative if positive ground (original 6volt setup, or 12v with generator)
With the gearshift in neutral, put your volt meter on the distributor terminal (small wire from the coil) and ground the other lead to the meter. With the ignition on, you will have either no voltage there, or 12v. If no voltage, turn off the ignition push pull switch. open the distributor cap (remove the rotor and dust cover if it has one) and look at the points. using a small regular screw driver open the points and look at them for condition. Pitted and ugly is not good, flat and grey is probably OK. Use a piece of thin plastic, as from a plastic knife, to hold them open. Now turn on the ignition (do not start it) and see if there is voltage at the distributor. If yes, the points the points are at least trying to work. If no, the coil is bad, or the wire is broken internally, or the small plastic/fiber insulator at the distributor terminal is broken and shorted to the distributor case.
using a piece of emery board (nail file stick is great) polish up the points. Use a folded dollar to make a final cleaning of the contacts.

The points should be set to .020" when they are pushed open by the 4 lobed distributor cam. (this might require you to turn the engine by hand (Ignition OFF) to get the cam in position) Put it back together and try it. If it starts, cool, if not let us know. Jim

Thanks Jim for the detailed directions, just what I need Do you know of any books that might be at the Tractors For Dummies level? I have a shop manual, but it seems over my head I will follow your directions and test as you suggest. I watched several you tube videos last night and did some research. It appears that a full tune up might be in order. It seems basic, but very new to me. I will update as soon as I run the tests. Thanks again.

Well now I am really confused!! Finally had some time with a friend of mine that is a mechanic in my local area. We gave the tractor a full tune up. We changed the plugs, gaped the plugs, New plug wires, new distributor cap, new rotor, new points, new condenser, and a new wire from the coil to distributor cap. We made sure the points were adjusted correctly and that we had a good spark at the points and plugs. I charged the battery to be sure we would have enough cranking power. No start!! It cranked over, but would not start. We chocked in different levels including no choke. We moved the throttle into different locations. We ended up flooding it again and running the battery down. I charged the battery back up to full power and let the tractor sit for a couple of days to try and dry out the flood. No start today either?? I have cranking, but it just will not start. Any and all thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!

(quoted from post at 01:55:51 05/04/15) For some unknown reason, at least to me, my 1957 International Harvester Model 350 Utility has decided not to start? It was running great after some earlier issues and worked wonderfully last Sunday. Parked it for a couple of days and when I went back to use, it would not start. It is finally warmer in New England and I wonder if I am flooding it? It cranks over, but will not actually start. The thing that concerns me is that there is gas dipping from under the carburetor while I try to start? I have tried for a few days in a row now with no success. I try not to chock, but it will not start. I chock a little and turn the throttle up to mid range, but no start and the gas drips out of what looks like a drain hole in the bottom of the carburetor? I am a rookie in the tractor ownership so I appreciate any thoughts. One day it was running fine, the next not so fine.

Click to expand...

( It was running great after some earlier issues WHAT ISSUES?)

Have you inspected the condition of your wires all the way to the switch?
Have you cleaned all the ground wires?
Byron