Farmall 460 Tuning

AdamOH

Member
I have a 59 Farmall 460 that runs great with no load on the engine. But once the engine starts getting loaded with the pto engaged it will start to supuder and die. if you clutch it soon enough the engine will speed back up only to do the same thing once the load is reengaged. Its got new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, carb rebuilt and still continues to cut out and die. Any help with tuning would be great. Thanks guys
 
Is this when warmed completely up? It sounds like float is set low, or main jet needle needs opened some. Also there is a damper in the intake/exhaust controlled by a bimetal spring that you see on the exhaust manifold above the carb. These stick, rot out and/or become clogged inside thereby not allowing it to heat the intake manifold properly. From what I understand most gas 460 are "cold blooded".
One other thing is timing. If not advanced enough it will cause and engine to cough.
J
 
Spark plug wires. Often the most overlooked part of a complete tune up. They MUST be WIRE,not that carbon/silicone crap.Had a SuperM like that once.Tried everything.New WIRE plug wires was the answer. Or it could just be running way too lean. Open up the load screw a bit.Open till the engine wont 'sneeze'/hesitate when you yank open the throttle,then a fuzz more.Just two possibilities,your 'milage may vary'.
 
After taking into account what the others have suggested, you should also check the timing with a timing light. The pulley is marked off and you want it to be firing at 30 degrees before top dead center at full throttle. With today's lower octane gasoline you might want to retard it a couple degrees from that at a time to test it. I worked at Deere dealer last four years before I retired and one of the other mechanics had a 3020 on the dynamometer. It would run ok for a while then start spitting and sputtering and popping bad until load was release like running out of gasoline. After he was fully satisfied with the carburetion, he put the timing light on and found it was considerably earlier than it should be. Retarded it to where it should be and it ran like a top. Well, like any 3020 gas that is.
 
How did you set the main jet? Full load means 5 turns out, less than that for lighter loads.
 
I worked with it last night and have the main jet turned out 4 times from the seat and adjusted the idle mixture out 1 turn and is running much smoother under load now. But revs up to 2k rpm and is still under powered.
 
The choke has little effect until about half half then it progressively gets worse the further the choke is out.
 
I took a look at the exhaust manifold and it is missing the heat exchanger spring. If the damper isn't able to move when the engine warms up would this be the cause of the sputtering, as it seems to run better before it gets warmed up fully? Thanks
 

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