Super h doesn't warm up

I have a super h that doesn't want to warm up use it to tractor pull and during the summer it rarely comes up past the c or even to the o on cold. Today I ran it on the dyno 50 degree day and just got it past the c after 10 min was pulling it hard. Was cool enough I could hold had on radiator and head and both were cool. I then covered covered the radiator with my coat and ran on dyno for another 10 min and barely got past the d on cold, the tractor then ran better. I have replaced the thermostat and this did not help any ideas. Thanks in advance
 
I'd say your cooling system is working as it should.Those things are made to cool at 100 degrees pulling hard...Just poopin' around just isn't going to cut it.
 
Yes, these old girls are simple machines. They run cold. I discovered I never even had a thermostat in mine. I installed one, it warmed up a little, but not a lot. I put a cloth shroud over the grill in the winter, helps a lot. Have been looking for shutters I can afford, but so far can't get them.
 
That is normal. Put a full load on it in the summer with 90-100 degrees and it will read next to the red area. I have done that many times.
 
if you are covering directly on the rad then you must cut a Round hole in card board in the centre of fan. you want the air flow to be drawn in evenly . covering bottom half is not good as it is hard on water pump brgs as fan will produce a wobble from uneven air flow. experiment with 12" to 16" round till your satisfied with temp.
covering grill don't matter as air will be pulled in from any openings.
 
To get them up in the RUN area it would take three or four rounds in a field plowing on a warm day They have a good flow on coolant and a LARGE rad . They are not a car or a pick up of today that has a cheap cooling system with limited capacity . You will never get it warm in 300 feet let lone running on a Dyno for 10 min. Ya want to WARM it up pt it on a plow and go plow ten acres or hook to a grinder mixer and grind a couple ton of feed thru a small screen .
 
two ways to make it warm up one is to make a new stainless steel sheet metal "gasket" to restrict the bypass in the thermostat housing it needs a 1/4" hole where the huge bypass is located. The second is to remove the original, and place a 180 degree thermostat in the top hose (select one that is a nice snug hand fit in the hose, and put it in so the rad side is to the radiator. Put a separate hose clamp around the spot to keep it in position, (don't over tighten). Make sure the new stat has a bypass drilling (usually has a small loose wire in it) to allow some circulation. that hole can be enlarged to 3/16 or 1/4" and should be in the up position. The tractor will be happy and more efficient when running in the mid range. When manufactured, the thermal control was designed for preventing overheating, not efficiency. Jim
 
Same old, same old problem. The coolant is bypassing the thermostat due to clearance in the housing. I will bet you a wooden nickel that if you drain coolant down just to top of core, start engine and you will immediately see coolant coming into the radiator. Those housings were not fit real close when new and they rust out so never get any better. The tube of the thermostat has to fit closely in the housing or coolant can go right on past them. The thermostat should pass just a trickle of coolant to prevent air lock upon refilling but that is all. If there is enough material in the housing you can machine a bore for a seal to fit in it and find a seal that lightly fits the tube of thermostat. I have done this on later models but most housings do not have enough material. I find a heavy washer that fits over the thermostat tube, a very light coil spring to hold washer up in place and it seals off worn housings pretty good. My own M was rusted so bad I had to find a different thermostat housing. If you take the whole housing off with thermostat installed and run a garden hose in the inlet, (square port where coolant comes out of the head), block the bypass, (bottom port to water pump) if you see any amount of water coming out of radiator port you know it is just going right on past thermostat. I don't recommend blocking the bypass to water pump as those water pumps need a place for water to move until thermostat starts to open. Actually the farther the thermostat opens the more it blocks the bypass to water pump and in a perfect world, all coolant would circulate through radiator when thermostat is wide open, but not likely.
 

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