584 new rebuild will not start

update from my last post the other week, since my last post my parts guys felt there was a problem with the rebuilt pump i got so they had another one sent and got it put on wed night and still will not start. redid the timing and checked to make sure all marks line up on the gears on the motor. this is a d206 motor put the injection pump timing mark on number 2, lined the crank at 14 deg before top dead center and then lined up the mark in the injection pump with the time mark inside the pump and will not fire. it will take off with starting fluid with no problem, cracked all the lines on the injector to make sure fuel is coming out and no air, and i have fuel coming back for the return line. everything in the motor is new and keyed and i check for top dead center when doing all this. pete 23 and curt and others i am out of ideas and lost of what it could be. i am open for an idea.
thanks guys

I did not go back and read your previous post yet, but I have a simple question. When you have the marks lined up on the flywheel and inside the injection pump, check the rocker arms on cylinder # 1 and Cylinder 4 of the engine. Cyl 1 should be loose and Cyl 4 the arms will be tight (no lash). Post back what you find. If you have any questions my e-mail is open. Charlie U

When #1 is at TDC end of compression stroke #4 valves will be on overlap since 1 & 4 are together. My book shows you have the timing correct, but do have a question. Do you remember if the new pistons are flush with top of sleeve at TDC, or were down a bit? The 206 and 239 both have the same bore, but different stroke, 5 1/16 for 239, and 4 3/8 for 206. Pin size is the same. I'm guessing the pin height is different while rods are the same. If 239 kit is used the compression will be much too low to start as the pistons will not come up to top. A compression test with all injectors out will confirm. Ran into this problem once when a friend rebuilt an IH 466, but used a 436 crank by mistake, it didn't start either..

the pistons were almost flush with the top of the sleave, they were with in .010 with being flush.

Hmmm, this is an interesting one. Engine requires 3 things to run, fuel, air and an ignition source, which in the case of a diesel is the heat of compression. We almost need to check all 3 to be sure. Fuel seems most likely even still. You said you had smoke... but I'm not sure how much. Seems like from extended cranking a diesel will burn off what little oil might be on top of piston from the rebuild and produce some smoke. Or if ether was used that could produce some whitish smoke too. My vote would still be fuel. Now I am not familiar with this particular injection pump. Is the fuel shut off done with an electric solenoid or a pull shutoff? Solenoid getting power? or shutoff adjusted correctly? A lot of pumps will push fuel at low pressure to the nozzles (when cracking the lines for example) even with the fuel shutoff being in the off position. But then it won't produce any pressure when it has to push through the nozzle. Hope this helps.

The piston height over the top of block,(not the top of the sleeve) is minimum of .5mm which in my figures is right at .020 of an inch. There are two different pistons available but piston height is same for both. The bowl is smaller on the higher compression piston for better starting and clean up. A (.010) thinner head gasket is available also for same problem but for use only if that dimension or less. If your engine runs good(you didn't say) after it starts with ether and cleans up, I would say you have a compression ratio problem.

O another aspect, I don't even know if this will work on that model pump as I never had the need to do it but is a way of knowing for sure if pump is timed to number one . On the American Bosch 100 series pumps used on the 400 series engines, I never worried about having the engine on number one compression when I took the pump off. The reason was that I didn't want to pull a nozzle, or valve cover to find out and during warranty work we were not allowed to break a pump seal. The internal timing mark on them was under the side cover and was sealed. What I did was align proper timing mark on flywheel and pointer on pump. Then I disconnect the drive of pump, lifted injection pipes off pump head, pulled throttle open and turned pump with a wrench. That way I could tell which cylinder pump was on. Saved me a lot of time determining timing for reinstalling pump. We had some pump failures under warranty and that method was the quickest. Would not work if pump was shelled out though. I never was a believer in the 50-50 chance of having it right or not.

Hi Urbancase, here is an email from Dieter that had a similar problem with an overhaul of 584 with D-206.
The correct mark is #2 and it should be somewhere in lower left of the inspection window. Also, the keyway in the pump drive shaft should be pointing toward the # 4 (?) pump fuel outlet. The one at the upper left, at the block side..You might have to loosen / take off the hub for this. It can be done with rad and fan still in place,it's just a bit of a hassle.The crankshaft pulley should be set @14* BTC for this and the the line on the face cam in the pump has to line up with the pointer behind the pump timing hole cover.If pump was rebuilt,the control levers might not be in the right position, the fuel lever should be somewhere in the 70* position.
Hope this helps. My 584 now runs beautifully and starts better than my glow plug pick-up.
Dieter

Hope this helps
JimB