2350 Loader

Rooster in TN · Apr 5, 2015

I am buying a used 2350 IH loader and would like to find out if anyone can help with the measurements to drill new holes in the frame of my 856. I know that the frame is one inch narrower on the 856 than the 1466 the loader came off of. Does any one have any measurement or idea of where the holes will go? I know the cross member will go behind the oil pan. I haven't got the loader home yet so I can't measure it. I have a bush hog loader on a 886, but I would like the 2350 on the open top 856. It may be easier to put the bush hog loader on the 856, because the 2350 bolts right to the 886, but will look good on the 856. Just going to use for loading hay in the field and in the barn sometimes. That 2350 is a big loader. Any help would be appreciated.

DeltaRed · Apr 5, 2015

I would wait till you got the loader home and sitting right beside the tractor BEFORE you start measureing and drilling. You may find all you need are some 'shims'.

mkirsch · Apr 6, 2015

Unless the 856 had a 2350 loader on it in the past, he will definitely need to drill holes in the frame.

If you've got an 886, you have the template for the holes. The frame rails are pre-drilled for the 2350 on the 886. The holes in the front bolster are the same on both tractors, so use those for reference.

The 856 will require a 1" shim between the frame and loader bracket on each side.

Also beware that the 2350 loader puts excessive stress on the joint between the engine and bell housing. Consider connecting the frame rails to the bell housing using a plate that can also double as part/all of your spacer.

Rooster in TN · Apr 6, 2015

I do not know if the tractor had a loader on it or not, not while I had it hasn't. But some of the hole have troch on the fame of the tractor.

560farm · Apr 6, 2015

Measuring from the center of the top front bolster hole to the center top front hole of the rear frame rail bracket needs to be 38 1/2 inches and the second top hole closer to bellhousing is 44 1/2 inches at center. Then use the rear loader bracket as a template for the two bottom holes. Remove one frame rail at a time to drill the 5/8" holes. As mentioned you will need 1" filler plates at all four mounting bracket locations. I used the factory spacers as you can see in the pics. Disregard the torch marks, this loader was on a different color tractor before we got it. Here are some pics.

Brad

mkirsch · Apr 7, 2015

Highly recommended you add a plate like this on each side.

Thanks 560farm for the use of the picture:

Rooster in TN · Apr 7, 2015

I thought the 856 was 1 inch narrow than 886, would be a 1/2 inch on each side to made up the 1 inch?

mkirsch · Apr 8, 2015

Nope. 2 inches.

mazemeister · Apr 8, 2015

i would suggest not drilling any new holes in the tractor; it's simply not necessary. the front 2 brackets can be shimmed out from the frame like in the picture. I believe it is 3/4" on each side. then get a couple pieces of 3/4 X 6" flat stock about 2 or 3 feet long and drill hole to match the holes already in the rear part of the tractor side rails. then hook up the loader using the front brackets. once you get it in just the right spot, get a helper to lift the rear bracket up into place and weld it to the spacers. then you'll have a strong, clean set up with no permanent alterations to the tractor.

mkirsch · Apr 9, 2015

No, you just permanently modify the bracket...

The IH dealer fabricated up plates for our old 560 out of 1/2" flat plate stock that ran from the bell housing up to the stock frame rail holes with 1/2" spacers behind. The plate is drilled for the loader bracket, and the bolt heads fit in the space between the plate and the frame rail.

That way you're not modifying anything.

2350 Loader

Rooster in TN

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DeltaRed

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mkirsch

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Rooster in TN

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560farm

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mkirsch

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Rooster in TN

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mkirsch

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mazemeister

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mkirsch

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