found Crack in block

Well this makes me mad but I only paid $500 for the tractor I posted it on here a month ago and I rebuilt the mag and got it running this weekend. I found a few problems but today I found a Crack in the block I about got sick since it runs so damn nice and sounds so good. I am thinking I can grind the crack and jb weld it or possibly has anyone ever used stop leak with any success? From the picture do you think I have any water leaking into the oil in the block? Still worth my $500 the rear tires were worth that. I just can part it out even though I have to fix the radiator.
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I have run into that to many times. JB weld has been known to fix that at times as will many other ways of fixing.
 
Here she is how I found her I feel I need to fix her and use her for hauling fire wood and pulling logs out of the woods and some possible farm work its a good tool for $500 plus some repairs.
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To bad your so far away I have if that is an H like I think 4 of them that I would sell.
 
Well if it runs good and there is no water getting in the oil and no oil getting in the water; then I would drill both ends of the crack or otherwise it will keep spreading.

From there, I would likely apply some type of silver solder or low melting point braze via using a torch after veeing the crack a bit with a grinder. I would try to avoid arc welding it myself, but would not rule it out if I had no other viable choice. If I welded I would not weld very much at a time.

JB weld or epoxy would be my last resort simply because I view those as temporary patches that will eventually fail instead of permanent fixes.
 
Annoying for sure but repairable. You can try
the JB weld, if it doesn't hold then you can
braze it. If it came to it I would braze over
arc welding but an expert could do it. My luck
with welding cast is about 50/50.

The trick with JB weld is cleaning the base
metal. After you grind the area you want to use
_acetone_ to remove all oil residues. I think I
found that info on the JB website. Even some
brake cleaners can leave a residue.

The second trick will be keeping the area warm
while the JB cures. A heat lamp could work if
you're parked inside. Then too you'll have to
babysit the stuff for the first hour or so as
it will want to ooze down. Not a big deal but
you don't want to do it twice.
 
Chad I am in louisiana but have a 300 engine that
will bolt right in , I have no tractor or I would be
using it myself.
 
I had a similar problem on a W30. Cleaned it up real good, applied JB weld and it hasn't leaked water in over 20 years. Its a non pressurized system so maybe that makes a difference.
 
Like the guys said, if no water is in the oil and it runs good, it's definitely repairable. I've heard of people using the JBweld product. My ex father in law let a ford freeze and it cracked behind the starter. They tried the JB weld first with poor results. I'm sure the preparation was the main reason for the failure. We ended up welding it with nickle rods. That was a long careful process however. We cleaned the area, tipped the tractor as far as possible on the side, welded a small amount, blew compressed air on it to cool it, then used an air hammer to peen it and stress relieve it and then repeated the process until the entire v'd out section was filled with weld. It was good to go after that until my ex-father in law ran it so hot it melted a piston. Now you know why they are Ex's! :D
 
FWIW, I fixed a crack in my F30 block 17 years ago with jb weld and it has never leaked. I would think it would work in your situation too. Don't use the jb quikweld. Use the standard jb and let it sit a couple of days in moderately warm temps if possible.
 
looks below the water line to me , braze or weld
it shut , dont use JB weld , i haved tryed that in
a pinch , it will crack & fall apart guess it cant
take the vibration , i have used lock tite 442
opoxy works well but is costy im sure there are
others out there too , but again JB weld wont work
save your money there , if your restoring it you
should get another block there's just to many of
them out there to justify repairing that crack ,
im in Pa and do have a good block out of a 51 H if
your looking , but if you replace block you should
just overhaul whole thing at that point , kits are
not that much @ red power , my H is my favorite
tractor and i hate to say it but there are so
many of them out there & being pretty much useless
on a farm today is it worth it ? yes i know ill
get it for that comment , im an IH guy but its the
truth
 

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