bolts for my M

I am trying to find a solution for bolts to hold my rear rims on my old M. I can't get them off without using the cutting torch. I have started with one but they are all going to have to get cut. That's not a big deal but I have to figure out what to use for a bolts. The ones from the hardware store don't have enough threads because there is an inside nut and an outside nut so there isn't enough threads. I am wondering if I have to use ready rod or does someone have any other suggestions ? There are 8 bolts on each rim this is a 40 model. Thanks for your help Scott
 
Mine came off with a box end wrench and a small bottle jack.
Slow even pressure did it.
As the nut begins to move spray PB Blaster on it.
 
One question comes to mind...1. are they normal bolts and you cant find the right length without the threads stopping? I would look for bolts that have the flat collar and thread them farther with a tap and die setup. Allthread is nice for some things, but from what you have written, a full thread bolt would work better. If you have a shop nearby, they should be able to tap/die it for you.
 
I might have to do that. If that center nut is not tightened the rim slides while driving I have a feeling I don't want the rim to fall off that could be another problem.
 
A '40 M came with cast rear wheels with six spokes
or windows, and six rim clamps. Those wheels all
designed for the DW, deep well style rims.

During the FARMALL 300/400 production era IH
switched to double bevel rims and the cast centers
had EIGHT rim clamps, windows or spokes. The later
400 wheels still fit on M's, but the hardware is
different.
 
I'm alittle confused here. If you got 8 bolts per rim that tells me that most likely what has happened is your tractor had 400/450 rim centers installed at one point for XYZ reason. Definately not the end of the world. Problem is they don't list jam nuts for use with a 400/450 center that I saw. If it is a 400/450 center the bolts are cheap enough. You can pickup new bolts for about $1.80 a pop if you actually have 400/450 centers on that tractor. Now the clamps, and the nuts on the bolts are a different story. Now the nuts for whatever reason are about $5.50 a piece for the nuts and about $23 for the clamps. Not sure what's so special (maybe because they have a square vs hex head???) but they definately aren't cheap.

If you have miscounted and actually have the original 6 bolt rims then the bolts are about $5.50 a pop, but that fellow uses jam nuts and such like you're describing.

Either way you're gonna spend some money if you replace with original hardware.
 
In my experience you should try and save the original bolts and nuts. Buying new hardware to match the orginal is costly, and finding a bolt that threads up high enough for the inner nut is a pain. Also the inner nut is skinnier than anything that you will find at your local hardware store, specifically because of the close proximity the inner nut lies in respect to the clamp.
I've had luck with soaking in WD, then coming back later with more WD and trying an impact. The vibrations of the impact help loosen the rust and let the WD soak in. It make take some time and is a pain in the you know what, but in my opinion it's worth it.
 
Scott, when you heated them, did you bring the nuts to cherry red? I have yet to have a nut that didn't loosen once it was heated to cherry. In the few instances where the bolt/stud broke off, it was rusted away to the point that I wouldn't have used it anyway.
 

You're correct, the hardware stores do not have the correct length, but your friendly, local Case-IH dealer will have them and the cost will be competitive with the hardware stores. If you don't have a local Case-IH dealer, go to John Deere, or New Holland, or Agco.
 
I soak them for a few days with pentrating oil and then use a socket with a 1 1/2" drive and a 6 foot bar on it and if they don't break use heat and try it again. It has always worked for me. I put nuts back on with some anti-seize. If you have to replace them Fastenal is a good place to try.
 
(quoted from post at 09:55:42 03/23/15) Scott, when you heated them, did you bring the nuts to cherry red? I have yet to have a nut that didn't loosen once it was heated to cherry. In the few instances where the bolt/stud broke off, it was rusted away to the point that I wouldn't have used it anyway.
did heat them to a cherry red but when I tried to turn the nuts they twist the bolts. I also have a 300 at home and that has 6 bolts. It's kind of funny through time it seems like someone has them opposite of what they should be (they are from different owners).
 
(quoted from post at 09:54:01 03/23/15)
(quoted from post at 09:55:42 03/23/15) Scott, when you heated them, did you bring the nuts to cherry red? I have yet to have a nut that didn't loosen once it was heated to cherry. In the few instances where the bolt/stud broke off, it was rusted away to the point that I wouldn't have used it anyway.
did heat them to a cherry red but when I tried to turn the nuts they twist the bolts. I also have a 300 at home and that has 6 bolts. It's kind of funny through time it seems like someone has them opposite of what they should be (they are from different owners).

I fought those same bolts on my 1940 H many years ago. Managed to eventually get a few to come apart just as they should, but then couldn't get the bolt out of the hole because of so much rust. Eventually, with enough heat and a BIG hammer, They came out, but then I found the corrosion and pitting on those bolts was severe enough to render them completely useless. Ended up buying all NEW hardware. Would have saved a lot of time and frustration had I just torched them off in the beginning.
 
(quoted from post at 14:12:21 03/23/15) The more tools that I use the more rewarding I find it. I have also used swear words that didn't help ether.

I always felt that "those" words did help, but not very much. To be really effective, you need to make up a few NEW words.
 
you can use a threading die to cut more threads, that you need , jam nuts i found on e-bay cheap , look under bolts & nuts not under tractors , never checked for the bolts thow , you will get a good work out threading them bolts . i would replace them , there probably rotted half way through like mine where & that old steel is soft , a chisel will spit then nuts off easily
 
McMaster-Carr lists the 5/8 - 11 x 4, full tread, grade 5 cap screw for $2.50 each. Number 92865A810.
They also have regular nuts and jam nuts available in several different finishes.
 
(quoted from post at 14:45:09 03/23/15) you can use a threading die to cut more threads, that you need , jam nuts i found on e-bay cheap , look under bolts & nuts not under tractors , never checked for the bolts thow , you will get a good work out threading them bolts . i would replace them , there probably rotted half way through like mine where & that old steel is soft , a chisel will spit then nuts off easily

A grade 5 bolt is not the easiest thing to cut new threads on. You would want to use a new, or almost new threading die.
 

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