1953 Farmall H Restoration

Hi all! I am a new member to the forums but have been reading them for months and been coming here for parts. I just recently purchased a 1953 Farmall H with a loader. I will be doing a restoration on her. She is ruff but nothing I cant handle. I will be doing a rebuild of everything and fresh primer, paint and decals so I am trying to get her to look like new. However all the mechanical things will be done were she sits but were I have to sandblast and paint her is about 45 miles away from were she sits and I have no way of transporting her unfortunately. Even though it will take forever I have to drive it up there but question is... Will it make it up there on a fresh rebuild (Obviously after working the new piston rings and what not in) ? Also are you supposed to run those in 5th gear at full throttle or in 5th but back the throttle down a little? I am 16 so am new to this but I know engines like the back of my hand and will be getting much needed help on the paint. Thanks!!!
 
With Near zero experience at 17mph on a Farmall, I would say back down to 10 to 12 mph (1/2 throttle) You will feel reasonable speeds as your experience grows. They aren't tippy when driven with respect. If the brakes are reliable, all is well if the brakes are uneven or poor, keep out of 5th.
If your tractor is a 53, it is a super H if late 53 it could be a stage ll SH with live Hydraulics and battery under the seat. I would not drive it 45 miles to sand blast, I would look into having a portable system (rented or hired) to do it on site. Best of luck, Jim
 
Thank you! It must be a late 53 because it has the hydraulics and a battery. However the battery is on the side and not under the seat. Also I will have it mechanically sound before doing anything with it. Also I live in a development so I cant really sandblast or any of that here. I guess I could do it at the farm I work at but I would have to ask. Anyhow do you think you could take a look at these pics and tell me what you think it is? The guy still has the ad up and dont worry I got it for less then a grand. lol. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/bar/4902494144.html
 
We're are you located at where is the
tractor going to? I am sure their is
members on this forum or red power that
are close enough to you and would be
willing to haul it for you at a small
charge to cover fuel expense. That is a
long distance to drive, and the roads are
dangerous with alot of people having no
regards for tractors ect. Also with that
amount of mileage you will all but wear
out a set of ties. Ask around someone
should be able to help you out.good luck
jim.
 
I am right outside the town of Bel Air in Harford County Maryland. I need to get it up to Rising Sun in Cecil County Md. Thanks for the help! I appreciate it greatly. :D
 
It will be at least a couple months. And I will cover fuel cost and add a little extra in to help out. Do you have a email I can contact you at?
 
If you are dead set on doing a lot of sandblasting, do it before you tear it down. Then a coat of epoxy primer. That sand will get it everywhere.
 
I guess I am the odd man out - I don't see a problem with it. I
would run it up and down the road fast to see if the front end
wobbles. If it does, get that fixed first. Then I would drive it. I've
driven an M 6 hours when the big truck was down. It got long,
but it was a drive in the country.

I've always been told to work them when you rebuild them to
seat the rings good. In absence of that I have been told don't
run them at a steady rpm for too long. I would run it half way,
then up to full throttle, then back to half, etc. The lug up to full
throttle would do it some good. When you get it back home
change the oil and filter.
 
Awesome thanks! My name is Tony. Also do you recommend sandblasting then rebuild then primer and paint? Or what order? Also what tire size for the front are best. I think I decided on going with a 12.4-38 rear.
 
Sand blast then a thin coat of primer immediately to
prevent surface rust which will start within a day
of blasting then rebuild,re primer and paint. If
using 12.4 on rear go with 600-16 fronts to keep
tractor level. Use 2150 ih red paint for proper
color red.
 
I would agree with Gordo, get it blasted, primed then do your mechanical work. You will find some sand gets past the seals and cracks, that will do damage later. Paint it after you are ALL done.

I would haul it both ways, you are looking at a 3-4 hour drive, and do not know what will fail. I also would not want to run it after blasting until it was disassembled and cleaned.
 
Alright thanks so much I would never of thought of all this! I will haul it both ways. Also sandblast and prime then do mechanical work then prime again and paint. And use 2150 ih red paint and use 600-16 front tires. Now this brings me to what spark plugs are recommended and what oil?
 
It has hydraulics, but they are not live hydraulics, they are Liftall Belly pump. THe tractor is a pre 1953 plain H. It has band brakes (which are in my opinion superior to the disk brakes on the super series)
It looks to be a solid H with the 1000 being appropriate if the rear tires are as good as they appear. Jim
 
What kind of emblem is on the grill? If it has IH it is a super, if it has farmall it is regular H, but you still have a good tractor, used H with loader many days growing up
 
(quoted from post at 07:15:37 03/19/15) I guess I am the odd man out - I don't see a problem with it.

If you've been running tractors for years, I agree.

With an inexperienced operator on an unknown tractor, then it's time to err on the side of caution.
 
Jim, there are some parts bolted to the drawbar. Is that a hill side hitch with missing lever?
Thanks, Hendrik
 

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