400 fast hitch

Rustyone

Member
Bought a fast hitch for my 400. It is the one that has one cylinder and mounts on the top of the platform. Doesn't have a cylinder. Will any cylinder work or do I need a special one? Where can I find one?
 
The parts book calls for a 3-1/2"x8" cylinder. It appears to be a clevis type in the pictures. A standard cylinder like you can get at tractor supply can probably be made to work with some compromises.
 
This type hitch?
a184266.jpg

a184267.jpg
 
The 2 pt hitch you bought, you haven't put it on yet right? Are you sure its for a IHC, because I have never seen one that mounts on the platform, where would you foot go.Is there a chance it's for a 44 or a 444 Massey, and someone cut the sockets off the 3 point, and welded on 2 pt hitch recievers ?
 
Same one D Slater, But looks like I am missing more then 1 cylinder! I don't have any of the stuff in the 2nd picture. Do I need that stuff? Maybe I should have done my homework before buying?
 
there were two styles of fast hitch for a 400, the one pictured above is the early style. it has two cylinders. The large one in the back is for raising & lowering the hitch, the small cylinder on the side is to raise & lower the hitch point. There is also a junction block that attaches to the rear remote on the battery box, this block has a relief valve inside that prevents the hitch from leaking down and retards the lowering of the implement slightly, you will also need the u shaped drawbar.
The later style is called fast hitch with traction control and this hitch has only the one large cylinder in the rear but will also include a large D shaped handle with notches that comes up to the operator's left rear of the platform, this adjusts the amount of draft & weight placed on the rear tires for increased traction.
If you can provide a photo or two of the hitch you purchased we can help you identify which style you have & which cylinders you will need.
 
Mine is like the one in the photo but I never got
the cylinder and the mount on the side of the
tractor. Wish I would have looked into it alittle
more before I bought it.
 
That was part of the hitch but depending on what you want to do you don't necessarily need the front cylinder.
If you want to control the tip of a 2 point implement and a few other things it comes in handy. You can get a universal hydraulic cylinder with the same stroke and pin size. But a standard one won't have both ports on top and a stop pin.
 
(quoted from post at 09:13:06 02/24/15) The 2 pt hitch you bought, you haven't put it on yet right? Are you sure its for a IHC, because I have never seen one that mounts on the platform, where would you foot go.Is there a chance it's for a 44 or a 444 Massey, and someone cut the sockets off the 3 point, and welded on 2 pt hitch recievers ?

The lift link for the fast hitch on the early style mounts to the rear of the platform, as shown in the pictures above.

Later style hitches mount entirely to the differential housing.

A standard cylinder won't have the ports both on one end like is shown in the picture. That is the compromise I mentioned earlier. Use an elbow and zip tie the hose to the cylinder so it doesn't dangle.

The bracket for the depth control can be fabricated fairly easily.
 
I would contact the guy you bought it from to see if he has any more of it laying around. The side portion where the small cylinder goes can be pinned up using a jack & the right size pin, that would get it working for now.
The cylinders & bracket come up for sale once in a while but they are getting pricey. Any used cylinder you buy, plan on rebuilding it first. Most are pretty worn.
 
Thanks guys realy appricate the knolage. Will get ahold of the guy I got it from and see it he has more of it laying around! Thanks again!!!
 
(quoted from post at 16:17:42 02/24/15) there were two styles of fast hitch for a 400, the one pictured above is the early style. it has two cylinders. The large one in the back is for raising & lowering the hitch, the small cylinder on the side is to raise & lower the hitch point. There is also a junction block that attaches to the rear remote on the battery box, this block has a relief valve inside that prevents the hitch from leaking down and retards the lowering of the implement slightly, you will also need the u shaped drawbar.
The later style is called fast hitch with traction control and this hitch has only the one large cylinder in the rear but will also include a large D shaped handle with notches that comes up to the operator's left rear of the platform, this adjusts the amount of draft & weight placed on the rear tires for increased traction.
If you can provide a photo or two of the hitch you purchased we can help you identify which style you have & which cylinders you will need.

My fasthitch has only the one cylinder. The hitch is leaking down. I think there are 2 answers for my problem. One... the hydraulic oil is milky and leaking out a relief valve on the PTO body, or 2...the valve is not working properly. Not sure how to clear out all the moisture (condensation) infused oil and need to figure out what kind of pressure relief valve or cover I need to get. Suggestions??? Also considering purchasing some 303 oil as that is the kind suggested for tractors of this age. How much should I purchase? I saw on a post from years ago that a 300 takes 2-3 gallons. I have a 400.
 
The oil being milky does not have any bearing on whether it leaks or not.

If the oil is not spewing out on to the ground, it is either leaking past the piston in the hydraulic cylinder, or leaking in the valve itself.
 
Remove the dipstick from the hydraulic reservoir use a bright flashlight and see if it's milky or full of bubbles. If so I would drain it, remove the filter on the side ( four bolts) flush as well as possible & replace or clean the brass mesh filter & it's gasket & fill with new oil.
I use straight hytrans in my F300 for the hydraulic oil.

Is your leak coming from the air breather on the top left of the PTO housing? That would be an indication of the PTO oring that is between the unit & the rear end, there is also a seal that is visible around the shaft. There is also an oring around the actuating lever on the right side.
The drain is on the bottom left side looking forward of the pto housing and uses 20w oil (I used hytrans there as well, 20w is pretty noisey) The fill plug is same size right above it, fill to that level.
If it continues to puke oil out the breather then the oring on the front of the PTO unit is bad and leaking rear-end oil into the PTO housing. (has to go somewhere)
If the hitch is slipping down (over time), as advised above, I would rebuild the cylinder first. Then the check valve one hose hooks to on the side of the battery box would be the next thing I would replace the orings in.

I know they are a bit pricey, but I got all my orings from C-IH by p/n from the parts book. The numbers will change quite a few times, but, at least that way I know I have the right one, and only have to fix it once. Your mileage may vary.
 
(quoted from post at 18:14:46 02/25/15) Is the leak coming from the air breather on the top left of the PTO housing? That would be an indication of the PTO oring that is between the unit & the rear end, there is also a seal that is visible around the shaft. There is also an oring around the actuating lever on the right side.
If the hitch is slipping down, as advised above, I would rebuild the cylinder first. Then the check valve one hose hooks to on the side of the battery box would be the next thing I would replace the orings in.

I use straight hytrans in my F300 for the hydraulic oil.

I know they are a bit pricey, but I got all my orings from C-IH by p/n from the parts book. The numbers will change quite a few times, but, at least that way I know I have the right one, and only have to fix it once.
Yes, it is coming out of the air breather. In fact, prolly need a new air breather cap. I have another different cylinder but am kinda waiting on the weather to be a bit more cooperative. I am in idaho but it seems to be very chilly in the morning and I think I need a different set of hoses to go to the other cylinder. Need longer hoses made or adapt it with pipe as it is a standard cylinder rather than a top feed for both connectors. Are the two blocks on the side of the battery box the check valve? Seems to be an outer box and an inner box that are two pieces of the whole. Thanks for this information. I may just take the back plate off the PTO and see what is inside. Might be better to clean it out any way.
 
WHOA !!! Don't pull the large plate off you will have more parts flying than you can count.
Drain some rear end fluid down below the lowest level of PTO unit first.
Take the PTO unit off as an assembly from the rear of the tranny housing. ( four larger head long bolts)
There is a drive coupling that comes back from the main clutch housing, and you will need to line that back up as you go back together.
The oring goes around the front of this assembly, and an oil seal that goes around the shaft towards the coupling, once replaced the entire unit is then slid into the rear end housing.
 

Thanks for this information. I am gonna have to wait a bit anyway now. Looks like we got some rain in the forecast and I dont have a comfortable place to take things apart at the moment. Rain is on the ground as I type. I am planning on pulling the dipstick out and take a look inside as someone posted above. I then will look into the filler just to see what I can see. May take a pic or two as the camera on the phone is kinda small and has a flash. I could probably see more with a picture than just my eyes with glasses on. Also probably not needed to be said, clean the areas off of all dirt possible so none gets into the chamber holding the mineral oil (transmission oil). We used to use Mineral Oil as a dielectric oil in our radar high voltage tanks. Kept things kinda cool and less spark problems.
 

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