1086 drive issues -

I'm looking at a broke-down 1086, it's a late '80 by the sn. Right now, it starts, runs, and will move forward/back, but no hydraulics (remotes, 3pt, or loader) or PTO. The PTO lever won't stay engaged, if it's a hydraulic engagement (assuming it is), that would make sense with no hydraulics. Didn't try the TA, as the wheels are turned tight left and the loader is down (run off the rear remotes). For Sale, CHEAP.

So my question - knee jerk, I'd say it is the splines on the hollow-shaft. But, no noticeable noise from the clutch area - is there anything else it can be? Does this tractor have the dual pumps like the older ones? I'm not familiar at all with 86's. This one is high-houred at 9350, but all I really need is a general-use tractor, augers and grain vacs, maybe a baler, etc.
 
Well, it died this summer, so I'm guessing it isn't ice - as far as the filter, will that kill both pumps? Or is this one a dual-pump?
 
Well do you have power steering and can you feel a heavy clutch pedal or is it easy ?? I would say that the spines are out of the pressure plate and off the IDPTO drive . Sometimes you can hear a noise and sometimes NOT.
 
Your splines on the short shaft going in your clutch are not striped if the tractor moves forward and in reverse. Been there three times myself. You have two hyd pumps plus the PTO unit has its own pump. Sounds like a oil problem if all three pumps do not work. The rear pump runs your 3pt hitch and your external hyds. The front pump runs your power stearing, hyd assist clutch, power breaks, shifts the TA, and lubes the rear end that is under pressure. The PTO's pump is in its own housing. They all use the same filter that has been know to have collapsed and shut down oil flow also. Also the 86 series transmission dip stick that has a bell welded to it to keep out dirt and keep the stick at the correct level. If that bell breaks loose and slides all the way up to the loop , the dip stick will be pushed to far down in the transmission and will not read right. If its shoved down all the way, it will read up to 10 gallon less than what should be the correct level. Have seen that several times.
 
I go with the tractor Vet answer, there is a splined tube that operates the hydraulic pumps and IPTO. It splines into the clutch pressure plate bypassing the clutch action allowing "live" Hydro and PTO. When it strips, it requires a new tubular shaft, and clutch Pressure plate. (split) Jim
 

I do not have power steering (no steering at all, actually, the wheel spins fairly freely and not even a wiggle on the front wheels). I don't know about the brakes, either, the wheels are cramped to the left and the loader bucket is on the ground, so I didn't do much other than put it in gear and slip the clutch a little to see if it would move, and it did - looks like pretty much everything is dead hydraulic-related, all she's got is mechanical. The clutch I'm not sure on, feels stiffer than a pickup - assuming power-assist there is out, too.

I've been in a 1486 FWA that stripped that spline, but that one sounded like the clutch was coming through the floor when you started it - this one is, surprisingly, fairly quiet, enough that you can hear a little bit of spring rattle from the disc when you step on the clutch. That's what was bothering me, it was a little too quiet to say absolutely that was the problem. I'm thinking that $2500 including the loader might be worth the gamble.....

Next question would be manuals - are the Blue Ribbon ones the best way to go?
 
Take the cover off under the clutch and you will be able to see if the IPTO splines are slipping in the pressure plate.
 
Just for a comparison a year ago last fall I had a new clutch put in a 1086 including new pressure plate, flywheel turned and new PTO shaft. Took it in one day and brought it home the next. $2600. I had the loader brackets off so they didn't have to.
 
Yep IDPTO splines GONE , Pressure plate splines GONE no doubt about it. Remove loader with another loader and split at bell housing . all ya need is a set of splitting stand and something to suport the centrer section move ft. end of traqctor ahead two to three feet and have at it . Reface the flywheel and replace the PTO input with a new bearing and seals and put a clutch in it . Easiest way to go back together is hang the presure plate on the PTo input then hang the clutch disc in the transmission input and slide it back together then bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel up thru the bottom . This way you are not fighting the splines on the clutch disc and the pressure plate just the nose of the transmission shaft going into the pilot bearing . I have done many around here due to the heavy use of the PTO's Between Choppers and manure spreaders and lagoon pumps they fail often.
 
I will agree with Vet, the PTO short shaft splines are gone. Here are a few picture of a clutch job I did last fall. The splines were wore but not totally gone, but I did replace the shaft. Let us know what you find. Charlie U
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Thanks guys, that's what I wanted to hear! This one has a loader on it, so I'm assuming it's probably ready for a clutch anyhow - any recommendations on that, for a loader tractor? First guess I'd say the heaviest they make, but are there some that are better than others?

Another question, for down the road - what is the best way to add an independent valve for the loader to these? This one is (right now) plugged into the rear remotes, which is not gonna work for me, I need the remotes and the loader at the same time (bale processor).

Also, since I'm probably gonna get to know this one intimately, is a set of Blue Ribbon manuals a good investment, or should I be looking for something else? Thanks!
 
Just FYI, the tractor will still move with no hydraulics as long as the TA is OK. The TA sprag will grab and move the tractor as if the TA lever is back.
 
If you have no hydraulics it will make no difference which position the TA handle is in. If the sprag hold the tractor should move. If it is completely shot it will not.
 

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