M rear wheel bearings

Meangreen

Member
The rear axels are leaking oil with one side being worse than the other. I purchased new gaskets and seals, but after some research on here last night is sounds like the bearing are probably shot too. I looked up the bearings on Case's site and they want $135 a piece for each bearing. They do give the dimensions for the bearing, so is there a cheaper source with a good quality bearing? NAPA? O'Reilly's? Thanks
 
You're going to go with the roller bearings , instead of the ball brg's, Right? I can't say where there, the cheapest, been to long since i bought them !
 
Take the part no. to NAPA. They can cross it.I get a lot af bearings from NAPA,if not in stock,it will be here next day.Probably 1/3 to 1/2 the price of IH. Probably came from the same factory,just got a different wrapper.
 
There should be grease fittings on the end of each axle housing, have you applied grease to them? The grease around the axle seal should stop the dripping of oil. Unless you know you have bad bearings
JG
 
You will find cheaper bearings but count the number of balls in the bearing. The cheaper ones will have one less ball in them and don't handle the heavy loads as well. Just to let you know why they are cheaper. chris
 
Think most of the top bearings for that use run about the same as case IH. May find them discounted somewhere.
If you want cheep check out number 6214Z or other variations on eebay or other places. Some list the load specs and other specs and could be okay for use if checked out.
Will ad that it seems more inner bearings fail than outer and the outer ones came with a shielded side that went toward the inside of the tractor. lots of those axles have a good bit of wear at the seal surface. You have nothing to lose by inspecting the bearings after removing the axle caps. May not be easy to get all the old grease out to look. Also after wheel is off put a pipe or something on the axle or just push down hard without the leverage enough to see if the bull gear end will raise up and back down. Not 100% indication of inner bearing without looking but will give a idea. You will normally have some play.
Think ST-310-A was the latest IH bearing for that application. If I remember correct they have 10 balls. That's less than the originals. Think the IH engineers decided on less balls to give more when the axles flexed.
 
The transmission and rear end bearings are all standard size metric bearings. The base size for that bearing is a 214 then you add the suffix to define if it is a max type or has seals or shields. The suffixes vary a little bit depending on manufacturer.

A 214K is the regular old ball bearing in that size. Add a "D" for a shield to keep the grease near the bearing, 214KD. If you find a 214KDD it will have two shields but you can pop one of them out with a screwdriver.

To get a "max" type with the maximum number of balls change the K for an M or W, 214W or 214M. This is what is on the inner axle bearing, no shields or seals. You can upgrade the outer axle bearing to a max type with sheild, 214WD.

The one with fewer balls is not a "cheaper" bearing; it will have higher RPM capability than a "max" type but lower load capacity due to the fewer number of rolling elements. The max type will have a filling slot ground into the inner and outer race in order to allow the bearing to be put together.

All of this information and more is available from the Mfg's websites. SKF, NTN, Timken, MRC, Fafnir, and Bower are good brands.

Again, double check the suffixes against what you need.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top