Going to buy a Super A

DLMKA

Member
I put a small deposit down for the guy to hold the tractor for a couple weeks until we can get down to look at it (4-4.5 hrs away). If something is major wrong I can still back out. Other than the typical engine oil, coolant, gearbox, and hyd oil, brakes, shifting, etc check-outs is there anything else more specific to Super A to check out? It's got what appears to be a full set of cultivators on two pallets with it. He got the tractor recently from the widow of a friend that recently passed away and is selling it for her. He doesn't know much other than he believes his late friend is the original owner and it's been stored indoors most, if not all of it's life. The tractor and cultivators were used up until just a few years ago and he said it started and ran great. I don't expect anything major wrong with it.
 
"I don't expect anything major wrong with it."

Then like as not you will be disappointed, at least a little. You create more questions than you give answers. My first thought was why would the guy take a small deposit for an open ended inspection period with the the option of it being refundable? Second question would be are these rare tractors in your area because you are driving a LONG way just to inspect it. I guess if it is a real cherry, but still a long trip. I would have to take my trailer because I would not want to drive it twice. You didn't mention the price...guess that would be #3. Other than that, if you have others then you know the drill. First thing I look at these days are the tires. Stupid stuff like battery boxes, steering components, rims...look like nothing but cost a lot. Pretty much I figure when I buy an unknown from a "know nothing"...there are going to be repairs.
 
Asking $1600. It appears to be in real good shape and I don't find many for sale with cultivators, most that I've seen around here are more expensive and have either no attachment or a woods mower. I'm more likely than not coming home with it based on the pictures I've been provided and what he was able to tell me. What I'm asking is if there were any known "problems" with the SA such as weaknesses in engine blocks, cases, or front axles that would indicate it's been abused. It's a ~65 year old machine, I don't expect to not make any repairs, just want to avoid a basket case.
 
You have it figured out :) Check the obvious
things,fluids....It is an old tractor.It's bound to
have some minor little issues.Should not be a deal
killer.SAs are great little tractors.Popular too.If
you want/need perfect,buy a new one.A bazillion
parts are out there,they are easy to work on. Bullet
proof too.You wont go wrong on this one.I'll be
willing to bet that you will absolutely love it once
you get to useing it.Go for it!
 
One quick look will pretty much tell you if it's
been abused,a basket case...... Just drive it a
bit.You can tell.No inherent problems that I know
of. As you said,it's 65 years old.Expect some
issues/flaws. That stuff comes from normal long term
useage.Dont worry,trust your gut. It will be fine
 
(quoted from post at 10:35:21 01/21/15) One quick look will pretty much tell you if it's
been abused,a basket case...... Just drive it a
bit.You can tell.No inherent problems that I know
of. As you said,it's 65 years old.Expect some
issues/flaws. That stuff comes from normal long term
useage.Dont worry,trust your gut. It will be fine

Thanks. I'm probably overthinking it. I don't have a lot of money and don't want to buy something that needs tons of (expensive) work. Need something I can put to work in spring so we're not weeding an acre of sweet corn with hoes.
 
Along with looking for oil in water and water in oil I would look at the block closely for cracks. A common crack on the C113 and C123 is a horizontal crack on the carb side of the block. The C123 was reinforced but can still crack. If it has been repaired you will see it welded. I would also run it through the gears and make sure there are no excessive noises. If those things check out it should be well worth the price. It would also help if the sheet metal was nice.
 
Engine blow-by, oil dripping from the bottom of the clutch housing, transmission/rear end whine when warmed up, engine compression, head gasket leak, rear axle seals, etc.
 
Look behind the carburetor for a long thin horizontal crack in the casting that weeps antifreeze or has been repaired, it is a classic frozen block syndrome. Look for cracks near the four bolts where the steering bolster bolts to the block. Look at the final drive castings for cracks and welds, especially the left hand side which take most of the weight. Check to see if the hydraulics are leaking oil into the engine base through the pump seals by cracking the top petcock on the oil pan for excess oil. Loosen the drain plugs on the engine and transmission/rear to the last thread and look for antifreeze or water. Jack each rear wheel off the ground and look for the wheel to "fall" outward, that movement means bad bearings. See that the transmission doesn't pop out of any gear. Check the brakes. Look the rear tires over, they're expensive. Only cracks in the engine block would make me think twice about buying it.
 
So what if the crack has been welded properly and doesn't leak. I welded the block on my super C many years ago & it stays dry as a bone.
 
I think that is a stress in the block that cracks & not from freezing. My super C cracked there during the summertime. I welded it with nickel rod & it is dry as a bone since. It must be at least 40 years ago.
 
Oh! I stand corrected, I did not know that. I have a 113 on a B with a very thin hairline crack that is over a foot long behind the carb. As I bought it that way, I assumed it was a freeze up. So, it could be a stress crack or what sometimes is called a season crack? Thanks for the enlightenment!
 
It is a freeze crack. If the repair doesn't leak, it is normally not a problem. All else considered, you'd rather it not have a crack.
 
The cultivators, if not excessively worn at the pivot points, are worth at least $300 in this area, so that's a plus. The left side front pivot clamp (at the square that goes into the front bolster) tends to bend or break (look for twist or welds), but the "new and improved" HD replacement is probably still available (got mine as of 2 years ago). Cost about $130.

Does it have rear wheel weights? That's a plus. Worth about $150 (and worth every penny in traction).

Steering has been mentioned, but check the set bolts on the spindles for play - if they've been 'chucking' for a while, the spindles may need to be replaced. Check the steering sector shaft that it doesn't float (up and down) as the steering wheel is turned - the 'keeper' on top of the shaft may be broken - it's not the end of the world, but it makes for a lot of slop. Check the front axle at the pivot for welds - it's a known 'weak spot'. Check the parking brake pawl (lever on the front far right of the operator platform) that it isn't overly worn as to 'jump out', and check pedals for wobble (worn bushings); some wear is to be expected, but if they're really floppy, it's another few hundred in repairs. Check the governor shaft where the throttle lever rod connects (right side of the engine) for excessive play. If bad, it will need to be bored and bushed at a machine shop and the shaft replaced. Check the distributor shaft for excessive side play - if the shaft is flopping, the points won't be working right and it won't run as well as it should.

Does the charging system work? Generators and regulators are notorious for needing maintenance, and according to the folks here, good replacement regulators seem to be getting hard to find.

Does the touch control 'hunt' (bounce) under load, or leak badly? If so, it will need a rebuild - the kit is about $200 from Case/IH.

Expect seals to leak. As long as the drip rate isn't too bad and fluids levels are adequate, I wouldn't worry. You can fix them at your leisure (and budget). Check wheel bearings as above.

Even if it has half of the issues mentioned, it's all fixable, and FWIW, these tractors are amazingly versatile and durable. I paid $1600 for mine with an IH front blade, a Worksaver 3pt conversion, a generic 4' back blade, and a heap o' problems not immediately visible to my ignorance at the time. I paid about $700 too much, and have already spent ~$600 in repairs (with a lot more to go), but I wouldn't trade it for anything but a better SA. I've since picked up a #193 1 bottom plow (great for opening a field and picking rocks after each pass), #22 sickle mower (cuts my hay), #144T cultivators, and have most of the parts for a seeder. I use it with a 5' finish mower for the lawn, and it will power a 5' brush hog through 3' weeds (on the level, not so good on 5' canary grass going up hill), or a small baler (IH 46 or JD 14T). I often use a 3pt bale fork with it to gather firewood (half cord+ at a time in a box) and move things, and once carried over 1600# pallet of seed on it (short distance, very slow - don't try this at home, kids).

Love this little tractor. I suspect that if you get yours, you will too.
 
I knew you guys would come through. I have a list of the big ticket items to look for. I think we're planning on dragging a trailer down next weekend with every intention to bringing it home. It's got wheel weights on all 4 corners which is a big plus.

My 11 year old is pretty stoked about it, it'll be just the right size for him to learn on. He's been driving the Oliver 77 around and does fine but I think he's still a little overwhelmed by it.
 

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