Help Me Make a Fair Offer on a 706G

Here's what I know: 706 gas WF w/year-around cab. Tin
is good, paint is faded but looks OK. Cab has air
and heat, neither work. 4 very good tires, fast
hitch w/drawbar insert. Seller says TA works and
it's good in all gears, etc. Comes with a brand
new seat and ignition switch. Needs a new battery
and gauges. Seller says PO left it outside and it
hadn't run in 3 years, but he got it running in an
afternoon. I haven't driven it yet, he's asking
$4000, I think that's high. Any ideas on a fair
offer? Located in NE IL. Thanks!

If it doesn't smoke, and the hydraulic/TA/PTO?power steering, are working, it is a smoking deal. If misrepresented, not so much. Jim

I'm with Jim $4000 for running 706, no major problems, plus the extra goodies is a deal. If it didn't have the cab and extra parts, still seams like a deal for the descried condition. I'd seen them at auction in worse shape go for almost that much.

I think what you have to decide is if you want a 706 gas. Because if it's $400 or $4,000 it's pretty hard to know what you're getting. I know the tractor vet loves 'em but somebody wasn't so thrilled with it to have left it outdoors for 3 years. Why would the gauges, being protected by a cab, be shot. I don't believe that a 706 gas is going to keep the weather out of the engine sitting outside for 3 years. Maybe?

We have a 706 it sits out most of the year because the shed is full of everything else. Never had a problem with engine do to weather yet. Had other problems resulting from oil or fuel, but not weather. We use it sure, but if it still runs strong after sitting there can't be much wrong with engine. The gauges might be broken wires from a small animal getting to them, can't say for sure.Call me a nut, but the gauges aren't that important anyway, just have to manually check things more often. The 706 here the gauges don't work either, haven't for at least 10 years. Wires were disconnected after a small fire (dust that had built up got to hot) burned harness. The distributer was also replaced, that runs tach, with one that didn't have connection. I would like to find the proper dis. only so I can run the baler better; without tach have to guess RPM (baler works better just under the rated 540PTO RPM).

Too many unknowns for my taste to pay what I consider top dollar on a 706 gasser. See if the owner will let you bring a battery for it and try to get it running before you try to strike a deal. If you get it running you can assess the condition of the motor and find out if the TA works and if the brakes work. Sitting that long I wouldn't be surprised if the MCV is sticking too. Also crack the drain plug on both the engine and the rear end before you try to get it running. See if any water comes out. The one thing it has going for it is the really good tires. That can make a cheap tractor expensive in a hurry if you have to start putting on tires. I guess until I knew more about it I would consider it a $2000 tractor. Along with the cab does it also have flat top fenders or just the cab? If it doesn't have flat tops that would be another minus for me.

I would sit on it and drive it or I wouldn't pay more than scrap plus tires then if it is junk you can part it out and come out ok. This is my opinion I like handsets myself but a 706 can get pricey if you have very many unforseen problems.

Forgot to add: no fenders or weights, no broken glass on the cab. I'm going to go over for a "test-drive" this weekend.

Well i will throw my nickel's worth in . UNLESS it is running ( IF the owner is to cheep to put a 80 dollar battery in it and a set of plugs and points and five gallon of gas to make it run then he does not want to sell it) And unless it is running on it's own and starts on it's own then it is a DEAD ROW tractor . And with that you can almost bet your bippy that the T?A is almost out or is out.. And the only way to tell is when it is RUNNING . THEN to get the best test it should be done in HIGH RANGE and in third or ROAD gea rby loading the engine with the brakes and then pulling the T/A lever into the lowside . What this guy is doing he is pricing this one by what others are asking for there's . One Idiot around here is asking 8500 for a narrow ft fast hitch gasser , yep he is nuts . crazy what ever . Now the sad part is some idiot will probable give him 7000 for it and think he got a deal. The one your looking at IMHO is worth 2000-2500 at best buying a pig in a poke . Plus if you do not know how to correctly how to make the repairs and have to pay someone
You may end up with as much money it it as if ya went and bought a 5088 . As for the gauges not working , well i can tell ya probably why . as you only have two gauges , one fuel GAUGE and ONE TEMP gauge . The fuel gauge probably does not work because it is either the sending unit in the tanl or no juice to the gauge. The Temp gauge does not work is because at one time the head was removed and the temp sending bulb either twisted off or was CUT , so to repair you have to REPLACE THE WHOLE gauge cluster. So there is my NICKEL's worth.

Yeah, it's pretty common for that right gauge cluster to have one or both gauges non-functional. The original temp gauges in the 656, 756, and 856 are all non-functional at the farm.

The 756 has been non-functional since at least 1975.
The 856 didn't work when we got it in the late 1980's.
The 656 didn't work when he bought it last spring.

Double what everyone on YT says.