Farmall 100 cylinder sleeve

RandyM

Member
Plowing snow a bit back and the 100 made an odd sound and some white steam. My first thought was blown head gasket.

I pulled the head last week and didn't see anything strange with the gasket. Looking a bit closer I saw that #3 sleeve looked like it was up about 1/16". I turned the motor with the hand crank and yup - I pushed the sleeve right out of the block. Looking at pistons #1, 2, & 4, they are all stamped with part number 362867R1. #3 has a different identifier stamp and is actually a different "color". The tractor ran well before this problem. My questions are:
Likely causes for the loose sleeve?
Do I need to replace the sleeve? (One piece of unsolicited advice was to lok-tite it and push it back in to place.)
If I need to replace the sleeve, do I need to replace the piston as well?
a179213.jpg

a179214.jpg

a179215.jpg
 
Were it mine, I would pull it out (after removing the piston) and clean it up, wire brush the outside, and bead graze break the inside. Clean the top groove, and clean the Oring groove. I would put the sleeve back in with no Oring and see what the ring extension is above the block deck. If it has zero extension, I would shim it up to allow it to stick up 2 to 3 thousandths. I would then put on a new Oring and install the sleeve with dish liquid soap to lube it into the Oring. Install the piston and put it back together. Jim
 
Is the head gasket "fire ring" area for that sleeve beat up from the sleeve moving while the engine was running? Is that the cause of the problem, a head gasket coolant leak into that cylinder?

(IF the engine had recently been apart, and that sleeve had been replaced, and not yet rusted in place, it is to be expected for the sleeve to be loose and try to rise up with the piston, if you turned the engine at all.

If the fire ring IS beat up from the sleeve moving while the engine was running, Jim has given you good advice to shim it UP a few thousandths for better gasket crush/sleeve retention.
 
I would do as Jim says and also make sure each bore is the same since you say numbers do not match. Not good to have one cylinder that is say bigger or smaller in diameter causing and unbalanced engine
 
Thanks for the replies and help. If we can get some warmer temps here (3° and dropping tonight) I'll get it back together. I was concerned about needing to do all 4 cylinders.

I appreciate the help everyone here provides.
 
seen your problem just in case . you decide that you might ned piston and sleve . i do have two sleve and pistons with rings.nos ih piston number same as in picture.phone 989 912 0083
 
When rebuilding those engines you have to hold the sleeve in place with a flat washer & bolt as the drag on the rings will move it when you turn it over.
 
Well, the "right" way is to tear it all down and go back with all new sleeves, pistons and rings, but there has been a lot of "git-r-done" over the years. It usually worked for them back then, so why not you now?

I'm thinking I would pull the piston/rod/sleeve all together rather than pop the piston out of the sleeve. That way you don't move the rings and you don't have to mess with the bore at all.

The nice thing about that tractor is it's a quick job to get back into the engine if it doesn't work. If this was something big and complicated like a 706, I'd probably be more inclined to do it "right."
 
You need to pull that sleeve and piston. The sleeve is a tapered fit at the bottom sealed with an o-ring. Clean that area and inspect the block to see why its loose. When in place the head gasket will keep it sealed. Like the other post said turning engine over can lift up the sleeve thats why you need to use a washer and capscrew to hold them down when assembling engine so when turning engine over the friction of the piston doesent raise the sleeve up.
 
One more thing when replacing the new head gasket make sure the correct side is up as it will say on the gasket which side is up or down.
 
Gene Bender and others knows more about that size tractor than I do. So going to run this question by them.
That IH piston number he has was used after a engine serial number break. Think before that number a different sleeve and sleeve seal was used. Could it be possible the piston marked IH 113 could be a aftermarket with sleeve and a 3-1/8 replacement for earlier blocks and not sealing right? If possible it should be checked out when repairing.
 
D Slater makes a good point. IH made so many part number changes it is hard to figure out what you are looking at. Throw in the aftermarket markings and it gets worse yet.

It seems that the 362867R1 piston is a 3 1/8 gasoline piston appropriate for the tractor. But you should check the bottom of the sleeve to make sure it isn't the thin wall sleeve for the early Super A. You also need to check the other 3 that they are the same bore as the odd one. And verify the bottom ends of those sleeves too. Keep in mind that the sleeve that came up may not be the one that is letting water get to the wrong place. It is just the one that moved with the head off. It may only be guilty of being cleaner because it was installed more recently.

All of this discussion has been assuming the tractor has the correct block. Have you checked that it hasn't been transplanted from a Super A? What is the block part number?
 
The block is marked as a C-123, part #354898 R3, serial #6541, and with a casting code of 3-7-A (March 7, 1955)

The tractor serial # is 3765J. This works out to about the first week of March 1955 for the tractor.
 
Piston 362867R1 was used with some P&S sets with one number sleeve for engine serial 501 to 36000 and another sleeve number for serial 36001 to 65000. Different number sleeve seal also. Your block cast and serial number fits the 501 to 36000 type. You may have the correct parts but maybe a good idea to check while its apart.
 
UPDATE: I've ordered the pistons & sleeves from Duane Rushlo to match the originals. By hand I was able to pull the sleeve that climbed out. This is what it looked like. (I still need to drop the oil pan to look at the bottom end)
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top