removing / installing dry sleeves

heck914

New User
just got an engine kit for my Uncle's 39 Farmall H. Any tips or advice on removing / installing dry cylinder sleeves? I fabricated a puller with a steel disk , steel, and some threaded rod. Will this work or do I need to press them out ?? heat the block ?
On installation , do I need to freeze the sleeves ?

Thanks
 
From your rough description of your puller it should work. That is what I use here. They will be hard to pull. To install them freeze the sleeves. Cooling things causes them to contract (smaller). Then reverse your puller(pull them in from top, blocking puller on bottom of block) to press them back in. Be careful you don't press them in to far or fast to keep from breaking the lip off of the sleeve.
 
Cory is right. the only other thing is make sure to clean all the cylinders good with emery cloth or sandpaper before you install them and if you can doit fast from freezer to block they may fall right in. good luck
 
one thing to keep in mind is the length of your threaded rod. For pulling out the length of the sleeve and plates plus a couple of inches for blocking is fine, but for going in you need the height of the block plus all the other things.
 
Two things here before you start pulling those sleeves. Check the sleeve flange protrusion over the top of the block. You can do that with a simple feeler gauge and a flat chunk of iron. This is a reference to make sure the new ones don't protrude higher than old ones which has been a problem lately with new parts. Then make darn sure your pulling plate is not larger than the outside diameter of the old sleeve. It probably has thin wall sleeves already and they are only 1/16 in thick. Originals were l/8 inch t hick. You want your puller to be a few thousands of an inch smaller than the sleeve. Another thing, when you get the bores cleaned out good, try the new sleeves at same temperature as the block. They should start into the bore a little ways. I always select the best fitting sleeve for each bore. Some will be looser and some tighter. Then you can freeze them if you like, I never do because I want to know how hard that sleeve fits into the bore. Too tight, no good, too loose, no good.
 
After you get them out and clean the inside of the block as described below, don't forget to clean the groove at the top of the block bore that the new sleeve fits into. A little dirt in that groove will break the top of the sleeve in a heart-beat! (Don't ask how I found out about that little bit of dirt will break a sleeve.) A little light machine oil on wiped the inside of the block bore or the sleeve itself makes things go in a lot easier. I used a rag that had been sprayed with "Rem-Oil" (gun oil) to wipe the bore the last time I put in a set of sleeves and it worked great. Just be sure you don't over do the oil, just enough to make it a little "slick". (My $0.02 worth. jal-SD)
 
Thanks for the responses. heres a pic of my setup. I cant post a pic here yet, but heres a link to a pic. I welded the steel plate to the heavy tubing. I tried it, sleeve didn't budge. If you guys are saying its hard, then ill muscle it some more.



http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l199/heck914/farmall1_zps60649d88.jpg~original
 
Just rebuilt the 706 (it too has dry sleeves) in fall. Our puller is 1"(grade8 if I recall) threaded rod. Needed a heavy pipe about 5 feet on the wrench for about half the length on some of the sleeves (they were that tight) and others almost slid right out.
 
I always run 2 or 3 beads of weld, up & down, on the inside of a dry sleeve, and they always lift right out. Use care to protect the crankshaft, if still installed. I did not see that procedure mentioned here.
 
(quoted from post at 17:54:30 12/20/14) I always run 2 or 3 beads of weld, up & down, on the inside of a dry sleeve, and they always lift right out. Use care to protect the crankshaft, if still installed. I did not see that procedure mentioned here.

That's because you beat me to it.
 
(quoted from post at 01:54:30 12/21/14) I always run 2 or 3 beads of weld, up & down, on the inside of a dry sleeve, and they always lift right out. Use care to protect the crankshaft, if still installed. I did not see that procedure mentioned here.

If someone would do that on an engine that's sleeves are thin enough, like a D-361, they could easily burn through the sleeve and mess up the block.

AG
 

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