Impeller&shaft and dissasembly help MODEL H WATER PUMP

I'm currently in the breakdown period of an 39 H. I took off the water pump and I'm rebuilding. "OR TRYING TO" I cant seem to find the shaft with impeller for the water pump online. I only found the impeller by itself. If any one could steer me in the correct direction I'd appreciate it. I also need help taking apart the pulley's from the center thrust shaft. I can't seem to break it free. I want to replace the bearings and seals. Any one with knowledge on this would be most appreciated.
 
Water Pump, Impeller - For models 300, 350, H, Super H. This is impeller Only, [b:0290431f34]DOES NOT include shaft [/b:0290431f34]or thrust washer. (Part No: 9165DX)
 
(quoted from post at 15:24:29 12/15/14)
Might be a better bargain to just buy the complete new pump.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-H_Water-Pump_54148DA.html

I would if I could. My H runs on LP propane. So theres an extra hole in the waterpump I doubt I can find one with that hole. It was a pain in the rear as this hole has a pipe that comes up right in front of the engine bolts. Had to remove that pipe. None the less that's why Im needing to rebuild this original pump. Thanks for trying to help I didn't think anyone would.... I appreciate it..
 
It's been a few years ago but I dropped mine (Super C) off at NAPA and they did it for about $100 as I recall. I wanted to keep the original cast iron, I-H labeled housing.
 
Bates Corp in Bourbon Ind. has used ones, impeller with the shaft. Pricey, but.......available. Google 9165DXU
 
There were no factory Hs on propane in 1939, nor any other year for that matter, so you don't have an original "LP" pump to start with. Should be fairly easy to make one out of another pump. Pics would go a long way......Just saying.
 
(quoted from post at 17:57:33 12/15/14) There were no factory Hs on propane in 1939, nor any other year for that matter, so you don't have an original "LP" pump to start with. Should be fairly easy to make one out of another pump. Pics would go a long way......Just saying.

I understood that farmall went out in the field and installed these propane systems on the farms. I think all they do is drill a hole and insert a nipple on the water pump but Im Leary of that DIY. Thanks all for the advise. I saw those shafts for $100. But theyre used. U reckon if I heat the impeller and pound it out I could push a new one in the shaft I got now?
 
MY 39 M had a hot water tap from top r. rear of head where temp. gauge is, using a T pipe.That line runs around back of motor to the Ensin unit near carb. and their is a line going to lower cast iron pipe to radiator. No water line fm. water pump.This tractor uses standard water pump. This should work on your H. Buck
 
(quoted from post at 16:40:09 12/15/14) It's been a few years ago but I dropped mine (Super C) off at NAPA and they did it for about $100 as I recall. I wanted to keep the original cast iron, I-H labeled housing.

What exactly did napa do? if you don't mind me asking?
 
Doesn't CaseIh have water pump parts anymore? It's
been years but I used to get all the pump parts I
needed for H's and M's from Case.
 
(quoted from post at 15:49:53 12/16/14) Doesn't CaseIh have water pump parts anymore? It's
been years but I used to get all the pump parts I
needed for H's and M's from Case.

I will check with them. Hopefully they do. Like I said I found some used ones at a ridiculous rate.
 
Yes for around 220 dollars. IH part number 9165DX used to include the shaft and impeller. Don't know if case ih still sells them as one piece
 
New seal and bearings. Shaft (so far as I know), housing and impeller in mine were OK. Don't know what they'd have one if they run into those problems.
 
Here are the photos of my rebuild project. I can't break the hub loose. I heard that there was a pin on the generator pulley. I found what I think people are talking about on other forums. On top of the pulley closest to the Bottom of the pump is a little silver smashed in piece of steel. Is this the pin I need to get out or does it take brute force to separate the hub to get to the bearings?? Please advise
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You need to remove the bolts from the end of the pump and pull the piece off that the bolts are holding on. You can then more easily access the large nut which will have to be removed before the hub will pull off the shaft.

There is no pin on the generator pulley that needs to be removed. The pin you see on the large pulley is actually a screw that locks the movable half of the pulley in place. Do you see the threads behind the pulley? One half of it will screw in and out for loosening and tightening the belt that drives the pump.
 
(quoted from post at 21:28:08 12/16/14) You need to remove the bolts from the end of the pump and pull the piece off that the bolts are holding on. You can then more easily access the large nut which will have to be removed before the hub will pull off the shaft.

There is no pin on the generator pulley that needs to be removed. The pin you see on the large pulley is actually a screw that locks the movable half of the pulley in place. Do you see the threads behind the pulley? One half of it will screw in and out for loosening and tightening the belt that drives the pump.

Yes I had all the bolts off the top of pump. But it would not slide up. I guess I should dip it in diesel? With bolts removed from top. Or lightly tap and it slides up??
 
Maybe I confused you when I mentioned the pin in another post. Most times the reason it needs removed is for adjustable pulley replacement. See you have a hex nut that needs removed to slide hub off to replace bearings or seals. Some just have a nut with two flats like in picture.
If your hub won't slide of after the hex nut removal, sometimes if bearings get bad enough to spin on the shaft it can be difficult to slide the hub off.
Picture is a housing with the hub slide off. Also the pin location if you ever need to replace the adjustable pulley. Had this one apart to get the adjustable pulley for use on another one. Bearing and bearing spacer needs removed from hub before driving pin out. Impeller wasn't the best shape on this one also.
a176732.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 23:43:45 12/16/14)
(quoted from post at 21:28:08 12/16/14) You need to remove the bolts from the end of the pump and pull the piece off that the bolts are holding on. You can then more easily access the large nut which will have to be removed before the hub will pull off the shaft.

There is no pin on the generator pulley that needs to be removed. The pin you see on the large pulley is actually a screw that locks the movable half of the pulley in place. Do you see the threads behind the pulley? One half of it will screw in and out for loosening and tightening the belt that drives the pump.

Yes I had all the bolts off the top of pump. But it would not slide up. I guess I should dip it in diesel? With bolts removed from top. Or lightly tap and it slides up??

Did you remove the large nut? If it still won't move by hand then you will have to use additional force with a hammer.
 

Noticed in picture that your adjustable pulley has a repair. Also is the lock bolt in pulley broken?
 
(quoted from post at 07:33:57 12/17/14)
Noticed in picture that your adjustable pulley has a repair. Also is the lock bolt in pulley broken?

OK SO INEED TO REMOVE THE NUT IN THE MIDDLE. TO SLIDE THE HUB OUT. WE TRIED BUT IT WOULD NOT BUDGE WE DID NOT WANT TO MESS IT UP. THANKS I WILL TRY TO BOLT THE PUMP DOWN TO SOMETHING AND REMOVE THE BOLT WITH TWO FLATS. I WILL KEEP POSTING PICS AS I MOVE FORWARD. THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE.
 
(quoted from post at 21:06:39 12/16/14) Here are the photos of my rebuild project. I can't break the hub loose. I heard that there was a pin on the generator pulley. I found what I think people are talking about on other forums. On top of the pulley closest to the Bottom of the pump is a little silver smashed in piece of steel. Is this the pin I need to get out or does it take brute force to separate the hub to get to the bearings?? Please advise
mvphoto14058.jpg

mvphoto14059.jpg


mvphoto14060.jpg


mvphoto14061.jpg


mvphoto14062.jpg


mvphoto14063.jpg
mvphoto14282.jpg


mvphoto14283.jpg


mvphoto14284.jpg


mvphoto14285.jpg


Finally was able to take off the pulleys. You need to remove the center shaft bolt that has to round edges and two flat edges with a crescent wrench with the pump on the block. Seals and bearings came of with a vehicle dent puller from harbor freight. new bearings installed and new seals tapped in with a flat piece of wood and a heavy hammer. These pics have the pulleys before rebuild and the thermostat housing rebuilt.
 

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